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  1. #1
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    Jan 2008
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    Default pre mixed adhesive drying time

    hi- i recently layed a tile floor and the pre mixed thinset I used is still not completely cured after 2.5 days. Can anyone shed some light on what may be contributing to this? I used a proper underlayment (Easyboard) which is certainly suitable for floors and countertops. Rather frustrating as this is holding up the grout process amongst other things.

    thank you

  2. #2
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    Quote Originally Posted by walshke View Post
    hi- i recently layed a tile floor and the pre mixed thinset I used is still not completely cured after 2.5 days. Can anyone shed some light on what may be contributing to this? I used a proper underlayment (Easyboard) which is certainly suitable for floors and countertops. Rather frustrating as this is holding up the grout process amongst other things.

    thank you
    you've posted this in the bath/tile area so assuming this tile floor project is in a bath or toilet room.

    also assuming hard tile not flex tiles like vinyl, linoleum, etc.

    you titled your post "pre mixed adhesive drying time"

    poor materials choices.

    tile mastic/adhesive is NOT thinset mortar, it WILL turn to mush when exposed to moisture, and does NOT belong on floors, or any wet or moist area. mastic/tile adhesive has a limited purpose/use none of which include wet areas or damp areas such as in bathrooms/toilet rooms. calling a tile adhesive/mastic "thinset" is a misnomer it only means that some stiffening filler (such as sand) has been added. tile mastic/adhesive doesn't belong on floors under hard tile.

    your underlayment choice also not wise for a FLOOR.http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...er=pro&lang=en Easyboard is not for floors. Wonderboard if you like Custom's products is for floors.

    pull up your tiles now while you have the chance, clean/soak them if you want to re-use them they might be salvagable.

    remove inappropriate underlay toss. get appropriate tile floor underlay if using a board product imbed it in REAL THINSET MORTAR. waterproof the underlay or beneth it using an approved system for waterproofing such as shulter, tar, red guard, or other, bond if necessary then use UNMODIFIED thinset mortar to set your tiles.

    Bath and toilet rooms are required to have a waterproof floor - thinset mortar and grout are not waterPROOF.

    you'll have to mix your thinset mortar. do NOT use laytex or other additives to the thinset mortar you use to lay your tiles.

    mortar will cure does not require evaporation or exposure to air to do so and will not interfere with your grout. you will need to wait the appropriate time after you have set your tiles before you grout.

    the good news is that you may be able to salvage your tile if you act now.

  3. #3
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    Jan 2008
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    I used custom building products pre mixed thinset mortar, it's not mastic unless they are marketing it incorrectly on both their website and the product itself. I understand mastic cannot be used on floors, hence why i used thinset mortar

    As for the easyboard application...I used 1/4 underlayment which can be used for floors and countertops as stated both on their website and the product itself. 1/2 easyboard is for walls and countertops which is the link you provided me.

    I thank you for the response but some of what you stated is not correct

  4. #4
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    Quote Originally Posted by walshke View Post
    I used custom building products pre mixed thinset mortar, it's not mastic unless they are marketing it incorrectly on both their website and the product itself. I understand mastic cannot be used on floors, hence why i used thinset mortar

    As for the easyboard application...I used 1/4 underlayment which can be used for floors and countertops as stated both on their website and the product itself. 1/2 easyboard is for walls and countertops which is the link you provided me.

    I thank you for the response but some of what you stated is not correct
    Okay so you used the 1/4" EasyBoard not the 1/2" for the floor, but you used Adhesive not ACTUAL Thin-set Mortar. Anything PRE-MIXED sold by Custom is NOT MORTAR despite the use of that word "mortar" or the use of the word(s) "thin-set" on the label - it is an ALTERNATIVE which is ADHESIVE.

    If it were a traditional thin-set mortar or a modified thin-set mortar it would have to be MIXED on site and would be labeled ANSI 118.1 or 118.4 respectively. If it were pre-mixed it would have CHEMICALLY CURED before it could be sold to you, which is WHY these are sold DRY and must be MIXED ON-SITE at point of USE.

    YOU used an ORGANIC ADHESIVE which is PROMOTED as a Pre-mixed Alternative to Thin-Set Mortar. Identified as ANSI A136.1 Type 1 and have made a classic DIY "buyer beware" mistake (incorrect materials choices and not reading instructions/specifications sheets).

    The Data Sheet on 1/4" EasyBoard is quite specific about your application NOT BEING CORRECT:

    ( http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...er=pro&lang=en ):

    Quote Originally Posted by EasyBoard 1/4 Data Sheet

    Joint Reinforcement
    Use 2" wide polymer-coated, alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh tape and thin-set mortar.

    Bonding materials
    For joint treatment and to set facing material, use a polymer-modified thin-set mortar. All mortars should comply with ANSI A118.1 or A118.4 stanards. Type 1 organic adhesives meeting ANSI A136.1 may be used in dry areas for setting wall tile and countertop tile.

    Limitations

    1/4" EasyBoard is unaffected by water but is not a water barrier. If the area below the backerboard must be kept dry, a waterproof membrane such as RedGard(Registered Trademark) Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane must be used.
    .
    Type 1 organic adhesives, even those meeting ANSI A136.1 ARE NOT TO BE USED ON FLOORS upon EASYBOARD. Floors are not countertops Floors are not walls. Bathroom Floors and Toilet Floors are not DRY AREAS.


    Custom has pre-mixed thin-set "mortar" ALTERNATIVES which are organic type one ADHESIVES. NONE of which are suitable for the installation you described (floor of a bathroom or toilet room upon EasyBoard 1/4" for ceramic or stone tile floor). None are these are traditional thin-set mortars or modified thin-set mortars. Those would be ANSI 118.1 and ANSI 118.4 respectively.

    http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...er=pro&lang=en

    http://www.custombuildingproducts.co...er=pro&lang=en

    And obviously YOU KNEW this, which is why you labeled your post "pre mixed ADHESIVE drying time"


    Just as naugahyde or naugahide IS NOT the hide of a nauga nor any type of leather, and neither is leatherette nor pleather any type of REAL leather; they are artificial leather, or leather ALTERNATIVES: your ADHESIVE is NOT a REAL THIN-SET MORTAR or a MODIFIED THIN-SET MORTAR, it is an ADHESIVE, thin-set mortar ALTERNATIVE!

    You may still be able to salvage your tile if you act quickly. Your EasyBoard would have to be removed, and doubtful it could be recycled since already had adhesive applied to it, would not be inspec to do so with any 118.1 or 118.4 thinset mortar specs I'm aware of.
    Last edited by Blue RidgeParkway; 12-14-2008 at 03:00 PM.

  5. #5
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    Jan 2008
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    thanks- appears the words adhesive commonly used was mistaken by me as a suitable alternative to mortar. The bath is a small powder room (4x5) and the easyboard is screwed down the way they suggest (probably over 160 screws overall) what harm, if any am i doing if i dont rip up the easyboard?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    Thanks blue ridge- dont worry about answering my last post- I am going to tear up the easyboard and start from scratch

  7. #7
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    Because the EasyBoard itself is supposed to be SET on your "screwable" subfloor on a bed of modified thinset mortar (118.4 or 118.1 with a specified modifying additive) before it is attached with nails or screws. Since, OF COURSE you must have read and followed the instructions/data sheet you know this already, right? TOILET ROOM should have been waterproofed first. Why don't you download the specification DATA sheet and read it for yourself.

    The harm is that your tile job will likely fail if you do not install it correctly. You'll be asking about cracking grout and popping or cracking tiles soon enough if you don't do it right the first time.

    wonderboard is a smarter Customs product choice.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    The real lesson here , is to NEVER tell Leslie ( AKA Blue Ridge Parkway ) that she is incorrect . As you can see from her hysterical attempts to beat you into submission with Google facts , she doesn't take it well .

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    [quote=Blue RidgeParkway;43745]I was already writing my answer to your post and posting it when you retracted, so I'll let it stand.[/quote]


    *** how gracious of you. we are all so blessed.


    cough cough

    choke choke

  10. #10
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    Default Re: pre mixed adhesive drying time

    You're welcome walshke.

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