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Thread: Coping moldings

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    I'll add that when you are using your coping saw, don't put a lot of pressure on it. This will cause the saw to go astray. Just let the weight of the saw do the work; all you have to do is push it back and forth and steer. Take your time, you'll end up with a neater job and less frustration .

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by terryoneill View Post
    I would like to know if there are any tools, saws or jigs that can be used for coping baseboards or crown molding
    Quote Originally Posted by Blue RidgeParkway View Post
    yes there is!

    a coping saw
    a pencil
    a piece of moulding cut at 90 degrees used as a tracing templet.
    Quote Originally Posted by JLMCDANIEL View Post
    If you cut the moulding at 45 degrees you don't need to trace the outline.
    Jack
    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    I'm still trying to figure out how this works ...

    A piece of molding cut at 90 degrees would be a butt cut, which wouldn't match up too well against anything with a profile, much less if the profile is canted as is the case of crown molding.
    baseboard, shoe, etc: first of all pre-mitring a coped joint is NOT the only way to do it, and back in the day, it just wasn't done for flat moulding. milled moulding was VERY EXPENSIVE back in the day! you WASTE A LOT of board feet of moulding pre-mitering EVERYTHING, and it is unnecessary to do so and often WORSE to do so especially with OLD homes where nothing, including the floor, is straight, square, plumb, level, flat or true.

    you trace the profile outline from your scrap templet piece ON THE BACK (wall side) of the moulding to be coped to the piece that was installed with a butt cut or into a corner. leave the line as you use the coping saw. you can offset that as needed by the change in plane floor, wall bowing, etc.

    files come in handy when fine tuning complicated cuts such as moulding on an angle that runs with stairs when it meets horizontal or vertical at a corner.
    Last edited by Blue RidgeParkway; 12-13-2008 at 04:05 PM.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by Blue RidgeParkway View Post
    baseboard, shoe, etc: first of all pre-mitring a coped joint is NOT the only way to do it, and back in the day, it just wasn't done for flat moulding. milled moulding was VERY EXPENSIVE back in the day! you WASTE A LOT of board feet of moulding pre-mitering EVERYTHING, and it is unnecessary to do so and often WORSE to do so especially with OLD homes where nothing, including the floor, is straight, square, plumb, level, flat or true.

    you trace the profile outline from your scrap templet piece ON THE BACK (wall side) of the moulding to be coped to the piece that was installed with a butt cut or into a corner. leave the line as you use the coping saw. you can offset that as needed by the change in plane floor, wall bowing, etc.
    you waste nothing by mitering, and is actually very material efficient. You say back in the day as if you have past experience doing this? you have never stated what your experience is, though you act as a professional for plumbing, electrical, fire ratings, drywall, framing, and finished trim out?

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Actually, back in the day or shoot it with a hand plane and miter jig.
    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by jkirk View Post
    if its in a house with an extremely annoying women we mitre and dont recut if the joint doesnt fit
    neither a power saw nor a power mitre saw is required to do trim work. the original poster asked about coping moulding. the original poster did not ask about production trim work and from your description of shoddy work you intentionally do for women who request high end trim packages you already indicated YOU just mitre the crown and LEAVE GAPS so what does that say about you?

    BACK IN THE DAY grain matching was often done. Carved pieces, complicated details, folks cared about this especially when working with more exotic higher end grains. Trim carpentry was done by REAL CRAFTSMEN who cared about QUALITY. A properly done coped joint will appear nearly seemless and will appear closed even as the wood shrinks and expands and doesn't rely on GLUE, PUTTY, FILLER, PAINT to look good.

    You OBVIOUSLY aren't familiar with HOW one copes WITHOUT pre-mitring or relying on POWER TOOLS. THREE of you claimed it didn't make sense or you couldn't figure out HOW it was done. I explained HOW it was done. pre-mitering is UNNECESSARY and in many REAL LIFE applications actually DETERS from an IDEAL coped joint. I explained how the OLD-TIMERS created those QUALITY coped joints. I learned how from a REAL craftsman who was renouned for not only quality and custom HIGH-END trim installations but designing and creating custom TRULY built-in-place cabinetry work. Ya'll doubted it could be done how I said it was done and as usual started your usual TRASH. your claims about how little you waste by pre-mitering only proves how disingenuous you are.

  6. #16
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by Blue RidgeParkway View Post
    neither a power saw nor a power mitre saw is required to do trim work. the original poster asked about coping moulding. the original poster did not ask about production trim work and from your description of shoddy work you intentionally do for women who request high end trim packages you already indicated YOU just mitre the crown and LEAVE GAPS so what does that say about you?

    BACK IN THE DAY grain matching was often done. Carved pieces, complicated details, folks cared about this especially when working with more exotic higher end grains. Trim carpentry was done by REAL CRAFTSMEN who cared about QUALITY. A properly done coped joint will appear nearly seemless and will appear closed even as the wood shrinks and expands and doesn't rely on GLUE, PUTTY, FILLER, PAINT to look good.

    You OBVIOUSLY aren't familiar with HOW one copes WITHOUT pre-mitring or relying on POWER TOOLS. THREE of you claimed it didn't make sense or you couldn't figure out HOW it was done. I explained HOW it was done. pre-mitering is UNNECESSARY and in many REAL LIFE applications actually DETERS from an IDEAL coped joint. I explained how the OLD-TIMERS created those QUALITY coped joints. I learned how from a REAL craftsman who was renouned for not only quality and custom HIGH-END trim installations but designing and creating custom TRULY built-in-place cabinetry work. Ya'll doubted it could be done how I said it was done and as usual started your usual TRASH. your claims about how little you waste by pre-mitering only proves how disingenuous you are.
    your thinking mitering wastes material, and because you state you learned it from an old timer real craftsman belies your claim of knowledge in this area. please stick to areas of real world experience from yourself and not google experience because you are falling way short

  7. #17
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by Blue RidgeParkway View Post
    neither a power saw nor a power mitre saw is required to do trim work. the original poster asked about coping moulding. the original poster did not ask about production trim work and from your description of shoddy work you intentionally do for women who request high end trim packages you already indicated YOU just mitre the crown and LEAVE GAPS so what does that say about you?

    BACK IN THE DAY grain matching was often done. Carved pieces, complicated details, folks cared about this especially when working with more exotic higher end grains. Trim carpentry was done by REAL CRAFTSMEN who cared about QUALITY. A properly done coped joint will appear nearly seemless and will appear closed even as the wood shrinks and expands and doesn't rely on GLUE, PUTTY, FILLER, PAINT to look good.

    You OBVIOUSLY aren't familiar with HOW one copes WITHOUT pre-mitring or relying on POWER TOOLS. THREE of you claimed it didn't make sense or you couldn't figure out HOW it was done. I explained HOW it was done. pre-mitering is UNNECESSARY and in many REAL LIFE applications actually DETERS from an IDEAL coped joint. I explained how the OLD-TIMERS created those QUALITY coped joints. I learned how from a REAL craftsman who was renouned for not only quality and custom HIGH-END trim installations but designing and creating custom TRULY built-in-place cabinetry work. Ya'll doubted it could be done how I said it was done and as usual started your usual TRASH. your claims about how little you waste by pre-mitering only proves how disingenuous you are.
    lets see now this link where norm says you get a better joint by mitering,
    http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/askt...212450,00.html

    and you know more then him?? I doubt it..

  8. #18
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by havanagranite View Post
    your thinking mitering wastes material, and because you state you learned it from an old timer real craftsman belies your claim of knowledge in this area. please stick to areas of real world experience from yourself and not google experience because you are falling way short
    Quote Originally Posted by havanagranite View Post
    lets see now this link where norm says you get a better joint by mitering,
    http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/askt...212450,00.html

    and you know more then him?? I doubt it..
    PIG SLOP. Mitre planers weren't even around back in the day. coped joints have been around long before there were power tools! and that's NOT what Norm "said" in that article link nor anywhere.

  9. #19
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by Blue RidgeParkway View Post
    PIG SLOP. Mitre planers weren't even around back in the day. coped joints have been around long before there were power tools! and that's NOT what Norm "said" in that article link nor anywhere.
    Well let's see, Mitre planers wow Brit./Canadian spelling.

    Factory produced Miter Planners have been around since at least 1882 http://home.earthlink.net/~wesg/rogers.htm and shop made shooting jigs for hand planing well before that and who knows how long miter saws and boxes have been around. So just what do you mean by "back in the day"?

    And who was this "REAL craftsman who was renouned (sp) for not only quality and custom HIGH-END trim installations but designing and creating custom TRULY built-in-place cabinetry work" that you learned from?


    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  10. #20
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    Default Re: Coping moldings

    Quote Originally Posted by JLMCDANIEL View Post
    And who was this "REAL craftsman who was renouned (sp) for not only quality and custom HIGH-END trim installations but designing and creating custom TRULY built-in-place cabinetry work" that you learned from?


    Jack
    It was her great grandpa Google, taught her everything she knows! Yet another instance where a useless and off topic diatribe from Blue Ridge Parkway - an unlicensed, untrained, and unexperienced individual confuses the subject.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

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