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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    21

    Unhappy Hardwood floor disaster. Help needed.

    Good Grief. I am refinishing my hardwood floors. This is an older home that markets in the 65K-75K range. I have worked a great deal with furniture refinising so dod not go in totally blind. AFter all the appropriate sanding I stained the floor with MinWax "natural".. After 2 days if drying time I applied a light coat of water-based poly that stated usable for both water and oil based stains. I reapplied a second coat after about 8 hours of drying. Now, here is where I fell apart. The next day I applied a 3rd coat. Upon drying I now have several rough areas. I have attempted to lightly sand them down. Because the poly soaked so much into the wood some of the areas now look as though they haven't been stained. The bottom line: Is is possilbe to add a stain to the poly. I am not looking for museum work here; I simply need a reasonable job to sell the house and move near my elderly parents across the country. Any advice is badly needed.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    175

    Default Re: Hardwood floor disaster. Help needed.

    Water based products require sanding between coats, because the water in them raises the fibers of the wood grain and that's what's causing the 'rough spots' in your flooring.

    At this point, I think you may need to go to a gel stain, slightly darker over the entire floor to even out the appearance. Then top coast with 'real' polyurethane (not the water based stuff).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,131

    Default Re: Hardwood floor disaster. Help needed.

    Without being able to see this firsthand.........and being a bit confused by your descriptions.......

    When you sanded these areas, did you sand thru the finish and right down to the wood.........which you say now looks as though it wasn't stained?

    Or........did you not sand all the way to the wood and yet the areas look unstained/lighter than the rest?

    Reason I ask is if the latter.....the situation *may* resolve itself if given enough time. Will try to explain - When common off-the-shelf waterborne finishes are used...you can only apply so much in a given amount of time or problems will result. Usually...these common WBs are limited to 2 coats inshort order or problems can result. (it's actually X mils of thickness...but two "average" coats usually makes up that X mils) Reason being that WBs dry & cure (coalesce) in a different manner than other types of finish. If too many coats are added too quickly, the underlying coats cannot dry/cure properly and the end result is usually a milky type of appearance. Too what degree depends upon how badly the *rules* were violated. Sometimes (depending)...if you can leave things alone long enough, the problem will remedy itself. Other times, those underlying coats simply may not ever dry/cure out properly. Again, it depends. WBs are a whole different kinda critter. They are also very persnickety about temps and relative humidity.

    Anyway, I'm wondering if the appearance of no stain in these areas is simply a bit of this milky appearance.....that may self-rectify. Might help to imagine this all if we knew what type of wood comprises the floor. Pics might help here also.

    However....If you have sanded all the way to the wood and consequently removed the stain that was applied...my next question is....do you have spray equipment and are you experienced with it? I'm thinking/imagining that you could carefully spray some liquid trans-tint dyes from Homestead Finishing (suspended in some Zinnser's SealCoat dewaxed shellac).....and color these areas to match the surrounding floor. Then wait about two hours and recoat with the WB. (Mix the color up on the weak side in the shellac and sneak up on the final color you need........coat by coat. Shellac dries fast so this won't take very long at all.)

    Or.....you might even be able to spray some of the same Minwax stain on the area...allow that to dry....then seal it down with a couple sprayed light coats of the SealCoat......then overcoat with your WB finish again.

    Was the Minwax stain you used waterborne also?

    How large are these problem areas?
    Last edited by goldhiller; 10-14-2008 at 09:39 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    21

    Default Re: Hardwood floor disaster. Help needed.

    Yu all have good ideas. I did sand and screen down to the wood. I do think that part of the problem is that the wood has raised as one pointed out. Also, the areas are scattered over the entire floor area (dining room and living room) It extends over a fairly large area. Actually, most of it has some raising here and there throughout the whole floor. Is it possible to screen it out if I use a 60 and then 120 grit screen? If I do go to restaining, can I do any of that over the poly? I have not found that possible doing furniture. Of course, I asked many people for advice prior to starting and got many different answers - most if not all said no sanding between coats required on floors. Go figure. Should have come to you guys first. Do you think my best bet would be tinting the poly and applying rqther than trying to re-satin over poly. Poly is WB - stain was OB May have done last coat of poly to soon. Thanks.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    21

    Default Re: Hardwood floor disaster. Help needed.

    What do I look for to add a tint to the poly. I can not use oil poly- I need to use the WB I have - Is there a specific product that you know of? I have lightly sanded the floor w/ a 3M pad and I think the best route is tinting the poly.

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