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  1. #1

    Default Exterior Paint Contracting

    I have a 1200 sq foot 3 bedroom home, 15' high roofline, a-frame with brick veneer and clapboard on 2 sides.

    Problem is eaves need a lot of prep work- paint is peeling, chipping, cracking or down to bare wood in some places.

    Simple scraping and light sanding for prep work will not cut it on the eaves- will wind up with uneven patches. So what kind of prep work for the eaves is needed? Mechanically sc**** down to the bare wood? Paint remover?

    What level of additional prep work should be bargained for on the eaves- written down in the contract?

    What else should be agree to or specified in the contract (exact brand of paint? # coats?) to get a good job?
    Last edited by Stan Gardner; 09-29-2008 at 06:49 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    5

    Default Re: Exterior Paint Contracting

    be prepared to pay alot because you asking for alot

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    14

    Default Re: Exterior Paint Contracting

    I would agree that your project will cost a good deal of money! I think you should have how many coats and the paint type and as many things as you can think of in your contract! The contract is meant to save you and the contractor from guessing on what each party thinks should be done! if it is spelled out in the contract you are both much safer this way! I would sc**** all of the loose paint and lightly sand then prime and finish paint after that! Good luck~

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Twin Cities Metro
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    27

    Default Re: Exterior Paint Contracting

    I agree that the best bargain is to do as much of the prep work yourself as possible. The quality of the application really depends on the prep so I would spell it out in the contract. Expect to pay more but the application will last longer.
    __________________
    Mark
    a Painter in Plymouth, MN

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    56

    Default Re: Exterior Paint Contracting

    Preparation will require a good bit of time. Don't use the power washing step to remove any loose paint, however, some will blow off in the process. A "pull sc****r" will shave off the loose paint to where the tight edge is. You can use an orbital sander (1/4 sheet size ) to feather sand the edges of the tight paint to smooth out the edges. Use about a 100 grit.
    Another way to smooth out the edges is to use a product made by Elmer's and some other companies that is an acrylic wood filler. It can be applied with a putty knife and then sand it smooth. The wood filler will be easier to sand and give the same smooth finish. The places that have been sc****d down should be primed before the filler is applied.
    For painting afterwards, do an internet search for Rhino Shield Coating. There are dealers in most parts of the U.S. It is gauranteed for 25 years and I can say from experience that it really works well. A represenative can give you the details. With using that, you won't find yourself in this situation again.

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