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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    2

    Default drywall to plaster joints

    in the middle of patching half the kitchen ceiling. home is say from 1910-20 right in there somewhere. We left the lathing up and attached the drywall with 2" screws. For all intensive purposes the drywall is there. Have a few worries about seasonal shifts in temp/RH affecting expansion and contraction but not much can be done about it. My main concern is the joints where the drywall meets the old plaster. The gaps vary from 1/2 to 1/16th of an inch. The gap doesn't bother me as much as the discrepancies in the the vertical difference between the plaster and drywall. Some of it is level and at some points the plaster or drywall are about 1/4 to 1/2 inch different in height/over hang whatever you want to call it.

    I assume mesh tape might be more effective than paper due to the differing materials. The problem I am struggling with is apply more Joint compound or plaster over the areas where the joints are way off in a vertical sense. I am not sure what material to use to adhere to the plaster side since it is painted and need something to adhere well to feather out over at the very least 12 inches in width over the joints to compensate for the height discrepancy. At this point just trying to get this solved and down the road might end up putting 1/2 drywall over the whole ceiling but due to time constraints have to finish this up ASAP.

    if anything is unclear let me know and i will attempt to clarify. ANY AND ALL INPUT is appreciated. Not looking for perfection b/c it is just unattainable in this situation. Just trying to get something up there that will hold and not look completely horrific.

    Thanks in advance.

    jeremiah

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    7

    Default Re: drywall to plaster joints

    i think it would work if you applied a bounding agent to the new drywall, then cover the joints with mesh tape. then re-plaster the areas you need to with a one coat veneer plaster, this should allow you to hide the height differences in the material and be quick.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    pittsburgh, pa
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: drywall to plaster joints

    as the above person said......always always always use a bonding agent....most concrete bonding agents also work for plaster and stucco. but what i think is easier to feather the joint in with is what drywallers like to call "BONDO" or "DURABOND". 'SHEETROCK's EASY SAND' is what i use(make sure you get easy sand and not actual durabond- to hard to work w/ for this project). it has different dry and set times for each bag....anywhere from 5 min. - 220 min. the reason for this is w/ a joint like that u might hafta put on more than the normal 3 coats to get it perfect. (i've had some repair jobs that took 8 - 10 coats) this will speed up the coating process. just make sure on ur final coat or skim coat, u use something like Sheetrock's VLS, (ready-mixed compound is easier for skims)

    p.s. and yes use mesh

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: drywall to plaster joints

    thanks waller and premiere. Appreciate the insight. I did end up finding some of that setting compound, the 90 I believe. I managed to whack it out pretty well. I started with a 5 " and ran it along the edge that was lower, then did it with an 8" and finished it off with the 12". I did the two initial coats with setting compound, then final was midweight mud.

    Didn't tape that edge yet so there is still the edge of the drywall that is barely visible. But wanted to get through a winter and a spring and see how it holds up before I go finishing it all off due to extreme shifts in temp/humidity. Just wasnt enough of a surface to attempt to tape at first, would have been 1/4 inch of tape on each horizontal surface then the rest vertical. feel it would have gotten super messy and served little purpose.

    I was shocked it came out so well truly. The few days of waiting and dust all seem worth it thus far.

    Few other things to button up, but she is coming together. don't have tons of before pics but will try and get some on here after a while.

    just one of those deals I guess, patience is the key, figure my family has had the house since it was built in the 1920's or so, least i could do is spend a few days trying to tighten her up, sucks that i couldn't replaster but, got a hundred plus pounds of dead weight of the ceiling. should increase the odds of the rest staying up.

    Thanks again for the help.

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