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You've probably never seen a plumber carrying a torque wrench, because the torque wrench that's used isn't a big, honkin' wrench like your mechanic uses. That would be like using a bulldozer to plant a tulip. The torque wrench in question is a small, T-handle device that you can almost hide in your palm. Proper tool for the job and all, you know.
It's a really good idea to use a torque wrench, not just so that the coupling gets tight enough, but also so that it's not overtightened. Overtightening these clamps can actually damage the rubber coupling and cause it to fail sooner.
It would be nice if the high-and-mighty "professional plumbers and electricians" on here would actually offer advice instead of constantly harping that only a card-carrying union pipefitter is qualified to do this sort of work.
And yes, I was a licensed plumber once. And yes, I did use a torque wrench on these fittings. And no, I wasn't union, so I guess there is no possible way in the world I can know what I'm talking about, so you'd better just ignore this whole post.
Last edited by Fencepost; 09-29-2008 at 11:33 AM.
If someone wants to use one .... go for it .... nobody is saying not to.
Btw .... how often do you have to calibrate the T handled wrench?
"" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
One advantage of hiring a licensed, bonded professional is that when they screw up, they have insurance to cover it and are legally obligated to make it right.
When you screw up, well, your own insurance *might* cover your stupidity.
It's always a good idea to consider the advice given, and if it seems like more than you are confident handling or you don't understand the advice, by all means call a professional.
I do own a no hub torque wrench. Use it every time to finish No-Hub couplings. Had no idea that the bands were intentionally color coded. Maybe I "need" more tools. Now I'm justified. LOL
I kinda agree with the dude but I also don't know a handful of plumbers that I'd trust to work on my plumbing. And the consumers don't even know enough to know better but still give them work all the time.
And I bet that price is list and he didn't actually pay that much for them. I'm a Liscenced Plumber and I would buy and use their tool if the job specs called for it. And the inspector will check for leaks but not usually the torque. However an Independent Inspector say on a gov't job or some engineered big commercial or industrial piping job may test it or at least ask to see your tools. And then you better have them or some extra time in the job. 'Cause that does happen. So I say the guy has a very valid point. However no one has yet mentioned that the wye had been cut down to fit in the cut out. Code violation Shhh they'll never know. It'll be fine no need to file a do not ocupy order or anything.
Okay...I'll take back what I said about no one needing a torque wrench for the clamps on a Fernco. Instead, I'll say that I don't need one. Then again, I've been doing things mechanical for about 45 years. I know enough not to use a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker-bar to tighten a Fernco clamp, but would use a 1/4" drive ratchet. It's easy this way to feel the end-result pressure because it's an appropriate tool for the job at hand. Admittedly, a newbie DIYer may not know which tool is appropriate and may not have a feel for what is adequate pressure and what is too much or too little. For these folks...a dedicated little torque wrench is probably just the ticket.
Case in point - I have an acquaintance/friend who is the husband of my wife's college roommate. Guy teaches high school English and history…..and is the football coach. He pumps iron every single day. Can currently bench about 420, IIRC. One day his wife asks him to install a new showerhead. Pretty simple job…or should have been. However, Steve has pretty much zero experience in the mechanical arenas of life (other than changing weights on his muscle-building apparatus)…and has lost all concept of his actual strength. Give it all ya got…is about the only way he goes at things. Well……he managed to twist the shower arm completely out of the wall with nothing but his bare hands….... while attempting to change out that showerhead. Didn’t know which way to turn it to unthread the critter, chose the wrong way… and just “gave it his all”. And did he ever. Had to call in a plumber and a tile guy to put things back together again….and it weren’t cheap neither. This, unfortunately, is only one example in a long list of Steve’s “DIY talents” and lack of finesse costing them substantial monies.
So in conclusion…. Yes, there apparently is a need for these torque wrenches even on simple jobs. But not everyone will need one. I think that’s a fair statement.
PS- Don't ask Steve to tighten the screws on your eyeglasses.
Last edited by goldhiller; 10-03-2008 at 10:31 AM.
We may have lost focus on the original post. The fitting in question is in the garage, at about the lowest possible point. If the coupling isn't properly tightened with the proper torque wrench, so what? If it leaks, it's not going to do any more damage than it already has, which isn't much. Simply put, it's hard to damage concrete with a little drip. And if it REALLY leaks, it'll just run down the driveway to the curb on down the street to the storm drain and out to the creek where it'll kill a couple of fish and cause an ecological disaster of Noahic proportions.
Nevertheless, the advice is good and may help some other reader.
It is an unsanitary nuisance. My torque wrench is set at 60 inch# It cost me $36 I will not name the manufacturer cause I'm notgetting paid to endorse it LOL. The budget brand was $32. It was not that big an investment. Yes, I could use a nut driver and it prolly wouldn't leak. Some one prolly took off the band to clear the drain.
Last edited by i.m.plummin; 10-06-2008 at 01:15 AM. Reason: its mine