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  1. #1
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    Aug 2008
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    Question Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    I live in an 1800's house. We have had rain damage to our roof and a ceiling in one bedroom. The roof has been replaced, and we are in the process of redoing the bedroom, due to mold growth and water damage. The room has been gutted down to the studs, laft and plaster removed. We had only intended on removing laft on exterior walls, but the people working for us became overzealous and removed all the laft and the woodwork (baseboards, around windows, and door). We had intended on putting drywall up behind existing woodwork. The problem is that everything has been removed. We are in an arguement with the people who gutted the room as how to refinish the room. We had intended on using the laft and putting it up vertically on the exterior beams so that it would match up with the woodwork. The laft is 7/16, and the plaster was 1/2. We are using 1/2 drywall. The people who gutted the room think that putting the fairing strips up will compromise the drywall integrity and cause it to wave. Their idea of fixing the woodwork issue is to rip a board and put it behind all the baseboards and the windows and the doorway. They keep telling me that it will match the color of the woodwork that I already have and that it will not have any gaps, etc. I don't know how, because I have stripped the woodwork, and I am going to varnish it. Plus, I don't see how making up a 1/2 inch isn't a big deal. Please help. I have been blessed with 3 extra days until it gets drywalled. (The people who gutted the room thought it would be best to cap one of the pipes from the water radiating heaters that is no longer in the room, and place it back into the wall. It is now leaking, and we can't drywall until that gets fixed.)
    Please help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    1,131

    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    "Exterior beams"...??? I suspect you mean studs. If so... put the lath over the studs as you intended. It will not compromise the drywall job. Use 2" screws to mount the drywall and everything should be fine. Have done this many times with no problems.

    Unless there is something very unusual going on there as concerns your framing...what they are proposing is both puzzling and will make for a whole bunch more work to achieve a cobbled-up appearance. Perhaps they are looking to extend their hours. ?? Or should I say extend them even more?? They already tore out plaster and lath that you didn't want them to...yes?

    You've got it right, they don't.
    Last edited by goldhiller; 08-01-2008 at 10:41 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    980

    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    yuk first I don't see any where the op said anything about ceilings. second there is a 1/2 inch board used for ceilings 24O.C. even when sprayed will sag .033 of an inch or 1/32

    it is called sag resistant or high strength

    http://www.nationalgypsum.com/submit...29%2000-06.pdf

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    Just another minor point, the OP's question has to do with the walls and woodwork not the ceiling.

    Shimming the drywall out with lath or any other thin strips of wood installed vertically on the studs to match the original surface depth is quite common. Building out or shimming the woodwork is only necessary if the new wall protrudes more than the original wall. If you match the thickness of the original wall no shimming should be required for the trim. The ceiling is usually non consequential because a difference in thickness is not going to matter.
    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    poster did mention that water came through the ceiling. my only mention was due to yuk saying it had to be fire rated. trying to keep it simple for the poster it doesn't nor would simply hanging 5/8 make it fire rated. a fire rating is much more involved then simply hanging 5/8 firecode. we straighten walls and ceilings all the time. finishing a renovation that we had to do that on the ceiling now.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    980

    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    Quote Originally Posted by YukYuk View Post
    Havanna, its a shame you MISSED it in the original post. I quoted and highlighted it for you so you could "see" "where the op said anything about ceiling".

    The occupied ceiling/attic floor or roof deck junction should be a minimum of 5/8" X rated gyp board, it is a required to be reconstructed as a rated fire-resistant assembly, the area is being remediated/reconstructed and plaster/lath being removed Therefore has to be minimally maintained to its pre-existing plaster fire/heat resistance and/or brought to building/fire/occupancy codes presently in effect, fire/draft blocking, etc. Ceiling assembly gets installed before wall board. No one said anything about ceiling sag but you.

    Your linked product is not appropriate for ceiling of room such as the OP has described. 119 rating specifications are absent, specifications regarding offset insulation also make this obvious as inappropriate for this location on ceiling. Note remarks regarding sag are merely "observations" anyway limit loading, and not indicated as standardized testing results no mention of 100 lb force test either. Unconditioned space of attics or roof deck is considered generally to be a higher moisture zone during certain climatic seasons. Seriously doubt rafters/beams/joists are being wrapped with gyp board independant of ceiling and wall covering, especially with previous water damage and mold or rot remediation. The product you linked to is often used as a shield for insulation cavities (requiring only flame spread testing) for example crawl space ceilings not containing mechanicals, and is mostly used in manufactured housing as ceilings. It has never been tested in anything other than a true horizontal application, and not in any fire resistant assembly (119) testing, it is also not listed or has been tested to use on a wall, yet and isn't planned to be. It is also not mold resistant, NG doesn't make such a gyp board product for inside use only external sheathing. Enough said.
    look again at what you stated. you lie so much can't even keep it straight

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    I tell you what I do know and thats you don't know anything about drywall and fire ratings except what you can find on google. and that, that you do find you don't understand. and that is a fact that has been proven by your less than intelligent posts

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    980

    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    once again you are wrong but you would have to know about the topic you are talking about to know that. you can only bluff your self so far and the only ones you can bluff are those who have no knowledge on the subject. and that is what makes you dangerous because you are posting on a help board. the difference between you and lion is only that you can use a spell check. I bet the pictures are probally about the same as well

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    980

    Default Re: Replacing plaster with drywall & trying to match up woodwork

    oh please noble your not. and you can go back and edit your posts all you want, your not fooling anyone.

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