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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    149

    Default Re: Toilet installation in basement

    i just love a hot topic like this. i like the Fernco Bands. emergency repairs or add on they work outstanding. make sure to tighten them down to the 60 lbs. torque. Plumb Best sells a inexpensive3 tools for that for 15$ US or so. It is called a torque wrench.

    next. god love the DIY projects. that is how i got into plumbing. check out the drawings and make sure you understand what a vent is.

    here is the misfitter's defination example of a vent: "if you have a soda with a straw in it and you put your finger over the end of the straw sticking out, and then lift the straw, the soda stays in the straw. when you take your thumb off of the end of the straw the soda flows out. if the soda was the sewage water the same would apply to the drainpipe(the straw)and the vent(your thumb and the end of the straw)." a studor vent is great, but you are at the bottom of your system. you really need to tie into the vent going out of the roof somewhere or it will always be a slow drain.

    where is the lav/sink? is the toilet/wc 12" off the wall? keep it simple with your installation, but also take your time and get it right.
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    Process of elimination. Good luck.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    11

    Default Re: Toilet installation in basement

    Actually I called a dozen of them and only 3 actually came by since all the others were either on vacation or too busy. This was drawn by one of them. I am sure this is not the extreme best way to do this but I am also sure it will work without any problems (well from what I was told and so far).

    The new toilet pipe is slightly inclined towards the outside drainage. I will add a pipe going upwards from the elbow (since the elbow is well under the cement floor).

    The new rubbers have no leak and the water flows properly thus far.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    11

    Default Re: Toilet installation in basement

    Quote Originally Posted by misfitter View Post
    i just love a hot topic like this. i like the Fernco Bands. emergency repairs or add on they work outstanding. make sure to tighten them down to the 60 lbs. torque. Plumb Best sells a inexpensive3 tools for that for 15$ US or so. It is called a torque wrench.

    next. god love the DIY projects. that is how i got into plumbing. check out the drawings and make sure you understand what a vent is.

    here is the misfitter's defination example of a vent: "if you have a soda with a straw in it and you put your finger over the end of the straw sticking out, and then lift the straw, the soda stays in the straw. when you take your thumb off of the end of the straw the soda flows out. if the soda was the sewage water the same would apply to the drainpipe(the straw)and the vent(your thumb and the end of the straw)." a studor vent is great, but you are at the bottom of your system. you really need to tie into the vent going out of the roof somewhere or it will always be a slow drain.

    where is the lav/sink? is the toilet/wc 12" off the wall? keep it simple with your installation, but also take your time and get it right.
    The cap is actually a "backwater valve", The pipe drain goes straight upwards to a toilet upstairs and then out to the roof vent. I was told that if the new toilet is 6' or less from the main line no vent is necessary (and I am not going to pull a pipe all the way out to my roof). Mine is around a foot away or so.

    OK I can't figure this "lav" out, what exactly do you guys mean? As this progresses a new word pops out here and there

    Do you mean sink? If so, There is an opening on that main pipe that goes downwards (the one vertical on the wall), that's where I'll add the sink line to. Right now that opening has a cap on. The same was done in my basement bar where they added the sink line to the side of the vertical pipe going to the drain from my other side of the house.

    I also found the cold & hot water lines which are right on that same wall. So the sink should be straight forward in my opinion.

    Yes the toilet is 12" from the wall on each side (I got these measurements from one of my other toilets).
    Last edited by RonL; 07-17-2008 at 06:32 PM.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    San Francisco , Ca
    Posts
    43

    Default Re: Toilet installation in basement

    Quote Originally Posted by RonL View Post
    The cap is actually a "backwater valve", The pipe drain goes straight upwards to a toilet upstairs and then out to the roof vent. I was told that if the new toilet is 6' or less from the main line no vent is necessary (and I am not going to pull a pipe all the way out to my roof). Mine is around a foot away or so.

    OK I can't figure this "lav" out, what exactly do you guys mean? As this progresses a new word pops out here and there

    Do you mean sink? If so, There is an opening on that main pipe that goes downwards (the one vertical on the wall), that's where I'll add the sink line to. Right now that opening has a cap on. The same was done in my basement bar where they added the sink line to the side of the vertical pipe going to the drain from my other side of the house.

    I also found the cold & hot water lines which are right on that same wall. So the sink should be straight forward in my opinion.

    Yes the toilet is 12" from the wall on each side (I got these measurements from one of my other toilets).
    i think you got it backwards.. the maximum distance to water closet trap arm to vent is 6 feet. upc requires 15" clear on each side of w/c. make sure its 12" from FINISHED wall.. you still need proper venting to be code compliant i doubt wet venting is legal where you are.. i'm quessing you didn't pull a permit for this..? as for the rough in you preformed all i got to say is you can polish a turn but it's still gonna be a turd

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    149

    Default Re: Toilet installation in basement

    RonL. YukYuk has a point. Don't turn the C.O. into the sink/lav. The C.O. is the clean out used for cleaning out your main sewer line if it gets clogged up. Yes, the "backwater valve" will help from the sewr backing up, but how will you clean the line?

    If the cleanout is lets say 8 to 18 inches off the floor then you could add a wye and 1/8 bend above the cleanout and then add your sink to the mainline.

    You really, really, really, really, really need a vent tie into the exsisting vent for this toilet/wc and sink/lav. Otherwise these fixtures will be slow drain and have problems. If you still insist on the studor vent atleast run the drain pipe up to about 8 feet and then have a studor box built into the wall. This will create some "play room" for the sewage gas. And the studor box will still be accessable.

    Also, plan on making your walls 2" x 6" walls for soundproofing and for ease of installation. Are you pretty good at sweating copper? Try PEX or CPVC. djrenek1 brings up a good point about the FINISHED wall. Check out the toilet "takeoff measurements" and find out from side to wall(usally 15 inches) and from front to back(they are 10, 12, and 14 inch takeoffs out there- 12 is most common). I change my opinion and i agree with a 13 1/2 inch takeoff instead(the thickness of the drywall has been added with a little room to play).
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    Process of elimination. Good luck.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    11

    Default Re: Toilet installation in basement

    Yes, I am going to add the studor vent and also a tee connection from the C.O. so one arm is going to act as the C.O. and the other will be going to the sink. It is very close to the floor. The idea matches your drawing misfitter.

    There is actually 13" from the wall to be more exact (even a little more then 13").

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    149

    Default Re: Toilet installation in basement

    Put the studor vent in the wall with an access panel at about 6' above the sink/lav arm. It can be put in a box built into the wall with a grill that comes with the box to allow the air and look docrative. I think Oatey make it.
    Process of elimination. Good luck.

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