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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    21

    Default Biasi B-10 vs Weil-Mclain Ultar oil info needed...

    I am trying to decide between the Weil-Mclain Ultra oil and the Biasi B-10 series with the Riello burner. I currently have a 23 year old Weil-Mclain furnace with the back brick wall starting to cave in. While the wall can be rebuilt, I think it is time to increase my total efficiency! Overall I have been unimpressed with the numbers of switches, and relays I have had to replace over time. I am on my third Beckett burner and my Honeywell Hi-Low module. I do have a Super Stor Hot water tank which Has been fantastic. I have heard good reviews on the Biasi B10 series. Appreciate any feedback! Thanks, Bill...Vermont=long&cold
    Last edited by bostonfan49; 07-08-2008 at 01:14 PM. Reason: wanted to put location/Vermont

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    443

    Default Re: Biasi B-10 vs Weil-Mclain Ultar oil info needed...

    bostonfan:

    I also prefer the Biasi B10---I think it's a great boiler, have heard a lot of good things about Biasi--the Europeans seem to know how to come up with a great boiler--the Riello is a top of the line burner with features many of the others don't have.

    Actually both boilers are similar in that they are both 3-pass & 86% AFUE---I don't know if either boiler comes with an outdoor reset package---but it's a consideration.

    Since Biasi is European you may be paying a lot more due to the negative exchange rate between the euro and the dollar---if the quote is within a few hundred dollars of the Weil-McLain, I would go with the Biasi.

    I always encourage those installing a new boiler to get 4-6 estimates---the choice of mfgr & price quote will vary considerably.

    Have you done a fuel cost comparison for propane as opposed to oil---assuming propane is available there.

    Get the price for a cu.ft. of propane, or a therm 100 cu.ft. & plug it in with the price of oil in the sites below.

    If oil is your only option, I would concentrate on getting an installer you can trust & seems to be enthusiastic to do a good job at a reasonable price.

    There are lots of other boiler mfgrs that have very good equipment including Buderus, Burnham, Crown, Dunkirk, New Yorker, NTI, Peerless, Slant/Fin, Smith, Triangle Tube, and Utica---most are well-made, U.S. models & thus usually cost less than european units.

    http://warmair.net/html/fuel_cost_comparisons.htm
    http://hearth.com/articles/47_0_1_0_M7.html
    Last edited by JacktheShack; 07-09-2008 at 09:13 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    21

    Default Re: Biasi B-10 vs Weil-Mclain Ultar oil info needed...

    Thanks Jack! Yes the Biasi does come with an outdoor reset. Have no interest in gas/propane (Personal reasons) In the past few months I have calked, spray foamed, foamed board and insulated every area that an earlier energy audit exposed, so I am hoping for a good drop in oil consumption! One final question about my hot water baseboard. What I have now is the 30 year old 600 btu style baseboards. I would like to take a few selected rooms in our house and go with the larger "Senior" 700+ btu baseboard units. I am under the impression that the higher output will through out more heat, quicker and hopefully have a more comfortable room. Bill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    443

    Default Re: Biasi B-10 vs Weil-Mclain Ultar oil info needed...

    Bill,

    Yes, baseboard can be tricky to size to each room.

    First, 1) make sure your equipment is operating at an adequate level and 2) make sure to first do a heat loss calculation for each room to adequately size the baseboard.

    Since you are having a new boiler installed, have the installer check out the amount of baseboard in the under-heating rooms & also check to see that the supply & return piping is circulating enough hot water thru the piping (best is 4 gal. per min./least is 1 gal per min).---the boiler also has to be putting out hot water at 180 degrees to adequately supply the baseboard.

    In other words, if there are any restrictions in the piping, these should be fixed before considering adding more baseboard---make sure all on/off valves are all the way on.

    Since standard baseboard puts out 600 btu/foot/hour, and a very rough heat loss factor is 40 btu/sq.ft./hr (assuming 8' ceilings), the rudimentary calculation for a 15 X 10 room is:

    15 X 10 = 150 sq.ft. X 40 (heat factor) = 6000 btu/hr to heat the room/600 (1 ft. of baseboard output = 10' of baseboard needed to heat this room---this may easily have to be doubled to 20' of baseboard if there is a lot of glass in the room/no insulation, etc.

    This, of course can be way off if the room has a lot of glass (windows) or high ceilings, or is over a garage, etc.---so you would have to do the slant/fin hlc below to get a more accurate estimate of how much baseboard you need for each room.

    A common practice is to install baseboard around all the exterior walls of a room, especially if you're in a very cold climate---if the room gets too hot, one can turn down the control valve, or add heavy duty aluminum foil to parts of the fin elements.

    In the real world, a typical baseboard may be operating at a temp of only 150 degrees with a flow rate of 1 gpm---this will only put out 400 btu/ft of baseboard, instead of an assumed 600 btu/ft.

    Get in the habit of placing your fingers on the supply pipe when the system is heating, if you have 180 degrees going into the element, you won't be able to keep your fingers on the pipe for more than a second or so.


    http://www.slantfin.com/heat-loss-software.html
    http://hearth.com/calc/roomcalc.html
    Last edited by JacktheShack; 07-10-2008 at 09:51 AM.

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