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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008

    Default Leaking InSwing Casement Windows

    We have a 1926 Craftsman house outside of Baltimore, MD. The inswing wood casement windows in the sunroom are original and we want to restore them. After removing the old caulk and paint that had sealed them shut and replacing the hardware, the windows now open and close and the next step will be to sand and repaint. However, we now have noticed that several of the windows leak water into the house during heavy rains. There is old metal weatherstripping that appears to be intact and we have no idea how the water is getting in. Any ideas for how to repair or replace the weatherstripping to make them watertight?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Upstate NY

    Default Re: Leaking InSwing Casement Windows

    Pictures would help. Try to give the windows an isolated water test to figure out where it is coming in.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Lakeland, Fl

    Default Re: Leaking InSwing Casement Windows

    Did you find an answer?
    I have a 1922 bungalow, with about 52 windows, half of them are casement.
    Let me know what you found, and if anyone knows where I can find some replacement
    hinges that would be a great help!
    The ones I bought locally don't actually close "flat" and cause the window to not close except with a little pressure. Which I am pretty sure will cause them to warp if force closed over a long period of time.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008

    Default Re: Leaking InSwing Casement Windows

    Without pics it's hard to say what to do here. Water gets in through 3 means. First is because it isn't draining away to the outside. Second is it is being forced in by wind- this can be caused by not enough drainage. Third is the uncommon but possible conduction of water through it's surface tension quality.

    The first thing I'd look for here is the see if there is enough slope on the sill. You need 7 degrees minimum slope towards the outside. Old windows can settle over time causing the sill to twist inward. I'd also see if someone added trim which would act as a 'dam' retaining water instead of allowing it to drain. If such a 'dam' is inherent there should be weep holes for drainage. These often get caulked closed by the unknowing or get filled by paint over time. You also need to check everything above the sill for sealing as water entering above may end up on the sill causing you to think the problem is there when it isn't.

    Old windows may not seal against air infiltration well, but short of a major storm they should keep water out as good as new ones. And for Gil, you need to inlet the hinges properly so the leaves do not touch when closed or they will work loose as the strained screws get pulled out of the wood.


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