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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Ithaca, NY (Upstate)

    Default rebuilding 1840s walls

    I am trying to renovate a room in an old house (built around 1840), and the previous attempts have damaged the old plaster and lath, so the walls and ceilings have been stripped to the original studs.

    How thick of furring strips should I put up, and what materials should I also put behind new drywall? Should I include a moisture guard in addition to the "board" insulation, or sprayed insulation?

    Any advice would be appreciated. I have included a representative picture that shows more ceiling than wall, but I'll be replacing both .
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    The Great White North

    Default Re: rebuilding 1840s walls

    Thanks for including the picture.

    The preliminary recommendation might include 1x3 or 1x4 strapping running perpindicular to the framing since it's very likely the framing is wavey.

    Run a tight string to see where you might add shims under the strapping to achieve a relatively true surface for attaching the drywall.

    With the 2lb closed cell spray foam you wouldn't need any additional vapor barrier .... that would be determined by your local building code.

    If you go with a 2 lb closed cell spray foam it would help with securing the structure as well.

    Hope this helps.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Fayette County, Ohio

    Default Re: rebuilding 1840s walls

    I would recommend 1X4 furring strips 16" O.C. installed as Canuk indicated. It's a lot easier to hit with a screw or nail than a 1X3. That looks like roof sheeting above so remember you need to maintain air flow to prevent over heating the roof. If you use bat insulation, use unfaced but attach plastic sheeting to the rafters. And as stated above if you use closed cell foam no moisture barrier would be needed.
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

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