+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Wood Stairway

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    12

    Default Wood Stairway

    In process of laying hardwood floor in 2nd floor hallway and will continue down stairway. The stairway is currently carpeted which has been removed. Must I remove the current MDF treads and risers(because of built-in bullnose) and re-do with plywood or can I pack out and square off with new plywood on top of current treads and risers? If I must remove the current MDF what is the best way since it is now nailed and glued and seems like it would be very difficult. Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    80

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    Hello, YES the proper way is to remove all existing treads, pry bar, cats paw needed unless you can gain access under the stairway to bang up on treads. This is a very time consuming process and there is no real fast way of doing so. Remove treads, install new oak ones to match.If you build on top of existing you then change the dimensions of the rise of treads which now become a hazard. Its not difficult to do, its just labor intense and time consuming. Hope this helps. GregC
    Hidden Content GregC, President/Founder of Hidden Content

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    florida
    Posts
    598

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    Quote Originally Posted by GregC View Post
    Hello, YES the proper way is to remove all existing treads, pry bar, cats paw needed unless you can gain access under the stairway to bang up on treads. This is a very time consuming process and there is no real fast way of doing so. Remove treads, install new oak ones to match.If you build on top of existing you then change the dimensions of the rise of treads which now become a hazard. Its not difficult to do, its just labor intense and time consuming. Hope this helps. GregC

    GregC, unless your seing something Im not, why cant he add the flooring on top of the existing treads. The way I see it, is if he's adding the same thickness on the 2nd floor,down the existing treads,on the lower level floor the riser hgts will still be the same height as the existing ones at the end of the day. It sure would save him alot of work.
    Am I looking at this wrong?
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

    Hidden Content
    Hidden Content

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    florida
    Posts
    598

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    By the way GregC, Your quick belt systems pretty sweet.,

    Good Luck with it.
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

    Hidden Content
    Hidden Content

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    6,486

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    The way I see it, is if he's adding the same thickness on the 2nd floor,down the existing treads,on the lower level floor the riser hgts will still be the same height as the existing ones at the end of the day. It sure would save him alot of work.
    Am I looking at this wrong?
    That's how I saw it too, however the question remaining is how to deal with the currently bullnosed threads when overlaying with the hard wood.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    florida
    Posts
    598

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    That's how I saw it too, however the question remaining is how to deal with the currently bullnosed threads when overlaying with the hard wood.
    Well my last post went to the moderator again.....

    Ok here go again.
    Spruce I knew you would be the one to ask that question..lol

    Depending on what kind of flooring it is will determine how to make it work. Is the flooring the thin engineered or full 3/4 thick. They make bullnose for both types for stairs.
    The moderator has the links I sent for a bunch of different kinds of nosing.....

    The only thing that may come into play is head room due to paddding the riser out to the nose then adding a new engineered bullnose.....Hopefully it will be ok
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

    Hidden Content
    Hidden Content

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    6,486

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    Spruce I knew you would be the one to ask that question..lol
    Always the trouble maker, aren't I?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    Depending on what kind of flooring it is will determine how to make it work. Is the flooring the thin engineered or full 3/4 thick. They make bullnose for both types for stairs.
    One would assume that the existing tread nose would need removal so that new tread/nose is fully supported.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    florida
    Posts
    598

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    No the existing tread nosing could stay, Just build out the riser with what evers needed then attach the new nosing into the flooring. First we need to know what kind of flooring it is and if he want a nosing on the new ones
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

    Hidden Content
    Hidden Content

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Winona, MN
    Posts
    35

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    Hi,

    IMO, using flooring for stair treads is not the best idea. It can create both practical and code issues. Solid, full-size treads work best and are less work.

    Remember if you add 3/4" to all the treads, you have to also add 3/4" to the landing at the bottom or the first rise is taller than all the rest by 3/4"... the code max riser variation is 3/8"

    http://www.stairways.org/pdf/2006%20...C%20SCREEN.pdf

    Also you have to cut all the original nosings off, since max nosing thickness is 1-1/4", etc.

    Plenty of considerations. Stair cases are not a good place to get it wrong... falls can be a killer.

    All the best,

    Basswood

    http://basswoodcarpentry.com/

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    80

    Default Re: Wood Stairway

    Hello All, Thanks for the complements. As I mentioned earlier, it can be done several ways. Is it always the correct way? Time and labor is a "pay me now or pay me later" thing. Doing it correctly by tearing it apart will in the long run save more time and less aggravation. Just my opinion. I am currently remodeling a 80 year old farm house. Owner was trying to do as least as possible, but considering all the years, add-ons etc best to start from scratch! Gut it all, then the NEW work goes so much faster. Thanks guys, don't get mad at me...only my opinion after doing this for over 3 decades I have learned the hard way several times over. GregC
    Hidden Content GregC, President/Founder of Hidden Content

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •