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Thread: Basement Walls

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    1

    Default Basement Walls

    My basement walls are 40 year old cinder block. The house had an existing interior perimeter drain which connects to a sump pit. The basement is basically dry and I do not have any history of water problems other than slighly damp areas on the walls. I wanted to finish the basement by just painting the walls so I wire brushed and acid etched the walls and painted them with UGL Latex Drylock. After a short time, efflorescence returned in areas and caused the Drylok to peel. I wire brushed, re-etched, and repainted the problem areas but the efflorescence keeps returning. I followed UGL's recommendation and wire brushed the problem areas and applied a thin coat of Drylok Clear Masonary Sealer and then re-applied 2 coats of the Latex Drylok. Efflorescence still keeps returning in areas. Any suggestions or can anybody recommend another product that they feel will solve my problem.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    The Great White North
    Posts
    4,045

    Default Re: Basement Walls

    The efflorescence you see is the salt contained within the concrete that is leaching through because moisture is wetting the blocks.
    This moisture is from the soil outside the basement wall and with the hydrostatic pressure being applied forces this moisture into the concrete blocks and eventually into the inside.

    Depending where this efflorescence shows up may indicate a problem with the exterior foundation drain .... for example ... if there is a line along the bottom of the wall near the floor then this is a clear indicator the weepers are not functioning properly.

    The fact the Dryloc is not adhering indicates the blocks are moist.
    Frankly I think this product is a waste of time and money and too many folks make the decision to try and waterproof their basements from the inside with this product.
    In my opinion the proper way of correcting these types of issues are from the outside .... not from the inside.
    Unfortunately this is usually the most expensive method but is the correct way.

    Excavation would be required down to the footings and the perimeter drain ( weeping tiles ) replaced along with a waterproofing ( not damp proofing ) system installed. This system could include a waterproofing material applied to the blocks with a membrane applied over top for protection from back filling.

    Example ....... http://www.systemplaton.com/foundations.html

    There are methods that can be done from the inside which could include making drain holes in the blocks and interior drain systems. In my opinion that's just a half -hearted method in order to make it more affordable.

    Make sure there is a reasonable slope away from the foundation to allow water run off .... ensure there are down spout extensions to direct water away from the house outside.


    Hope this helps.

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