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  1. #11

    Default Re: Basement Reno!!!

    If I were to use sleepers on the floor and filled between the sleepers with rigid foam do you think this is a waste of money? If I do it this way or even without foam would I need to vapor barrier the floor. I'm thinking to if it is insulated with foam it will help deaden the sound of the floor.

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Basement Reno!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by ed21 View Post
    While I should have known about countersunk tapcons, I still think it would be much easier to use the tapcons to fasten down the sleepers, then nail or screw down the subfloor. Too many holes to drill in the concrete if fastening subfloor directly to slab. I still like the edges of plywood fastened to a solid sleeper rather than floating. Getting extra insulation on a basement floor by having a continuous insulation layer isn't really going to help much if at all.
    Yep ... the sleeper method is an old tried and true system which I've used in the past. One intention of that system is to provide a warmer floor in a basement and as you mentioned height can be a premium.

    So ..... modern ideas have shown different ways of doing this and with improvements.

    In the past sleepers ( usually 2x4's laid flat ) were used and then covered with 3/4 inch plywood ... forming a somewhat conventional floor system .... with a height of 2 1/4 inches.

    Then a slight modification was to install rigid foam in between the sleepers for added insulation..... still having a 2 1/4 floor height.

    A modern version is to eliminate the sleepers all together and lay 1 inch high density foam sheets on the concrete floor and with T&G 5/8 plywood laid over top .... giving only 1 5/8 inch floor height.

    With the foam sheets they provide a continuous flat and stable flat surface for the plywood to be laid down on. When the concrete screws are secured this compresses the plywood down onto the foam sheets and provides a stable surface.
    Since there are no voids ( like the spacing between sleepers ) there isn't a need to have the screws tightly spaced .... 16 inches would work fine and closer wouldn't hurt.

    There are other non-conventional methods that also work well.

    Things like the Dricore http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx flooring system.... floor height 7/8 inches.

    Or another version that has similar results using this material from Platon..... floor height about 7/8 inches.
    http://www.systemplaton.com/flooring.html

    These two systems also have the advantage of controlling issues with moisture.


    I disagree that having a continuous thermo break isn't an advantage. Having this will prevent cold infiltration from a concrete floor which provides the comfort you are trying to achieve.
    Also ... by preventing heat loss at the floor you are reducing the chances of humidity issues from condensation by keeping the temperature up at floor level.

    This is the great thing about forums .... to discuss and share ideas.

  3. #13
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    Default Re: Basement Reno!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by cheyiennerascal View Post
    I love the look of a tile floor but it's just too hard on my old joints. If I go with a hard covered floor I would love it to be maple or oak hardwood flooring. I know that it isn't recommended using natural wood in a basement because of moisture content but is it possible to lay this over a foamed and plywood sub floor, or will the wood buckle and belly in the end. I know you can buy laminate hardwood that is meant or this type of application but I just don't like the product. I'm not into pressed wood fibres and veneers.
    In a time not so long ago ... in a galaxy not so far away .... wood and even laminate flooring was not recommended to be installed below grade ( basements ).

    As the popularity of these products grew that magically changed .... somehow.

    You have to read the manufacturer's recommendations carefully with these products.

    High humidity will affect both of these causing these to expand and it's important to allow the proper spacing along the perimeters for expansion.
    I would suggest to get readings of the humidity values in the basement to determine if it's too high.

    If you are planning to use these products look at measures to control and maintain the humidity at a reasonable level.


    Hope this helps.

  4. #14
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    Default Re: Basement Reno!!!

    Good advice here as usual! Other things to think about are accessing any plumbing/electrical/HVAC that might be in the floor above. Though it's kind of tacky, my preferred solution is to go with a acoustic tile ceiling for this very reason; one repair and you'll be very glad you did it. If you don't like the tiles appearance cut 3/8 inch sheetrock to fill the openings and paint the whole shebang any color you prefer. Using a 2X2 grid pattern this doesn't look too bad at all. If you do use sheetrock/grid use plenty of hangers since the grid will have extra weight on it and be extra certain all tabs lock properly when you build the grid.

    Another possible issue will be access to the back of your new walls for plumbing/electrical/HVAC inspection and repairs. In the old days I built as big as possible for the homeowner's sake, but the newer building codes might require a walkable space behind the new walls if there is anything in them(and with so many outlets required per foot nowadays there will at least be electrical in there). I know that this is required here with dug-out perimeter foundation homes.

    Like any DIY project, code compliance may not bother you but it will become an issue when the house goes onto the market in the future.

    MC

  5. #15
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    Default Re: Basement Reno!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by canuk View Post
    This is the great thing about forums .... to discuss and share ideas.
    I couldn't agree more.

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