As mentioned before me K&T can not come into contact with insulation. Another good reason to get rid of it and figure out ways to make an old home more energy efficient.
Not to mention, if someone does a repair and replaces part of the piping below the connection with plastic you have to possibility of making you pluming hot throughout the house.
Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb
I do not believe K&T should ever come into contact with insulation, either.
I'm about to interview electricians as my insurance company says disconnect the K&T or pay higher premium.
What are the right questions to ask besides licensing,insurance and references? Should they have workers comp as well as general liabilty and how much is enough? All advice welcome and needed.
I agree fully on the issue of electrical dangers due to improper modifications over the years by those without the know-how or tools, but that's just as big a risk with BX, NM, or any cables installed 40, 50, 60 or enough years ago that lots of people have lived in a house and had plenty chance to monkey around with the wiring for various reasons.
Being the stickler that I am (forgive me guys), I have to say it's pretty unlikely that even ancient insulation would fall off inside a wall cavity unless it was tampered with, and even if it did fall off, knob and tube wiring is separated from structural materials by insulating knobs and tubes, and from other wires by a couple of inches typically. Even if bare wire did rub up against wooden framing or plaster, those are also insulators, so I can't even imagine an arc occuring, not at a mere 120V anyway, unless a hot wire fell right up against neutral or a pipe somehow, maybe if a mouse sat on it or something, in which case a fuse of any rating would blow anyway.
Typical wall or ceiling thermal insulation of any type, fiberglass batts, foam, loose cellulose, etc, could be placed around any type of wiring safely because those materials are electrical insulators too. If over-rated fuses are causing wires to get so hot that you're worried about wall insulation causing heat "build up", those wires are already far too hot for safe operation even without insulation in the walls. Homeowners need to properly fuse or breaker wiring, not avoid insulation in order to keep wires cool. And, replacing ALL of the wires in the house, while good for keeping tradesmen employed, is not necessarily good for the homeowner's wallet or historic preservation of the structure when correct fuses/breakers, addition of new lines just where needed, and minor repairs could solve all major safety and convenience issues. Best wishes, ~Eric
Just to clarify:
2008 National Electrical Code
Article 394 – Concealed Knob-and-Tube Wiring
394.12 Uses Not Permitted.
(5) Hollow spaces of walls, ceilings, and attics where such spaces are insulated by loose, rolled or foamed-in-place insulating material that envelops the conductors.
Around here if a contractor doesn't have worker's comp then he has to have a waiver. Be sure to ask for all insurance certificates and make sure they are current, you can ask to keep a copy.
Since you've been instructed by your insurance company to have the work done, you should ask them what they're requirements for contractors are as well to cover the gaps in your policy.
Debby in Oklahoma
I agree completely with canuk's post on this topic.
To state that he is "not too bright" is WAY off base for someone who has demonstrated time and again his expertise on a wide diversity of topics over the years.
Derogatory remarks of this sort have no place on the TOH Discussions site.
I feel honored to be the first to congratulate him as he reaches his 1000th post for this forum.
Last edited by JacktheShack; 03-12-2008 at 12:54 PM.