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  1. #1
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    Feb 2008
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    Unhappy Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    I purchased a house which has 8" ceramic tile on the basement slab.
    I need to remove a 4" wide parallel section in order to place a bottom plate for a 2x4 studded wall.
    I was wondering what I'll need to remove this small area of tile?

    I was thinking on using a dry diamond rotary saw set about 5/16" - 3/8" deep against a straightedge to outline the removal area then using a chisel and a small sledge to remove the tile and thinset from the concrete. I have no clue how to achieve a flat surface on the concrete to receive the bottom plate.

    I may be removing all the tile on either side of the wall in the future in order to install radiant heat tubing. But that's a distant, "budget allowing" project.

    Any accurate, inexpensive, reduced dust method would be appreciated for the entire procedure.

    Thank You,

    Joe

    P.S. Sorry about using the bath area I didn't initially realize I was in this area. I arrived here via a web search and just posted in the same area as the thread I'd found. Again Sorry!
    Last edited by JosephBrian; 02-04-2008 at 05:50 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Do you have a window or door to the outside? If so, you can create a tent with painters plastic, then use a fan at the doorway of the tent to pressurize the area and blow the dust out the window. Be sure to wear a suitable dust mask because it's going to get thick in there.

    Short of that, you may want to look into renting a wet saw to keep the dust down.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    when you are looking at sawblades choose one that is totally smooth, the ones that have offsets on them will saw much faster but will also chip more, just to add to spruce's comment on the dust it can also be reduced by having a helper with a spray bottle set on stream continually spraying at the front of the saw where the blade meets the tile. this will keeep dust down and keep the blade from heating up thus also reducing vibrations another cause of chips.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    Do you have a window or door to the outside? If so, you can create a tent with painters plastic, then use a fan at the doorway of the tent to pressurize the area and blow the dust out the window. Be sure to wear a suitable dust mask because it's going to get thick in there.
    I was planning on using a clear plexiglass box I made that connects to my shop vac.

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    Short of that, you may want to look into renting a wet saw to keep the dust down.
    Don't like the idea of running an internal combustion engine indoors.

    But thanks for the tips!

    Joe
    Last edited by JosephBrian; 02-05-2008 at 08:30 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by havanagranite View Post
    when you are looking at sawblades choose one that is totally smooth, the ones that have offsets on them will saw much faster but will also chip more,
    If you're referring to saw tooth "set" found on wood saws where every other tooth is set left then right of centerline. I've never seen a diamond masonry blade with it. They do have chip removing voids between segments but they're not "offset."

    Quote Originally Posted by havanagranite View Post
    just to add to spruce's comment on the dust it can also be reduced by having a helper with a spray bottle set on stream continually spraying at the front of the saw where the blade meets the tile. this will keeep dust down and keep the blade from heating up thus also reducing vibrations another cause of chips.
    Again I'd only feel safe using water with either a pneumatic or an internal combustion engine driven rotary tool. There's something about water, grounded concrete and electricity that just doesn't mix.

    But I thank you for your time and effort!

    Joe
    Last edited by JosephBrian; 02-05-2008 at 09:13 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    using a hand held manual grout saw cut around entire tiles. carefully remove whole tiles. clean original tiles. excavate original mastic or thinset from the area. build wall. return to finish tile area. use wet saw to cut cleaned original tiles to fit area. apply bonding agent, spread thinset or mastic with notched trowel, back butter newly cut old tiles, install. allow to cure. apply sanded grout to match.

  7. #7
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    Feb 2008
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by unregistered View Post
    carefully remove whole tiles.
    Now that's got to be a trick!

    Thinset was originally used.

    How do you break it's bond to the ceramic tile without breaking the tile?

    Tools???

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by JosephBrian View Post
    Again I'd only feel safe using water with either a pneumatic or an internal combustion engine driven rotary tool. There's something about water, grounded concrete and electricity that just doesn't mix.
    Aw, come on Joe. Live on the wild side.

    Your concerns for running electric saws in a wet environment are definitely valid. No need to get your hair curled now, is there. The wet saws that tile setters use are electric, by their design, the saw is not in contact with the water, nor you with the saw. It is possible that there's a commercial electric saw designed for floors (hence checking the rental yard ) that is much like a concrete cutter.

    If it were me, I'd build the ventilated tent, and have at it. Just be sure to wear a really good dust mask and eye protection. It gets incredibly dusty, incredibly quick. You mentioned a plexiglass box, unless it has some sort of ventilation (unclear from your post), by the time you get the saw through the tile you'll have to leave because you can't see or breath.

    Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes.

  9. #9
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    Nov 2007
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    980

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by JosephBrian View Post
    If you're referring to saw tooth "set" found on wood saws where every other tooth is set left then right of centerline. I've never seen a diamond masonry blade with it. They do have chip removing voids between segments but they're not "offset."



    Again I'd only feel safe using water with either a pneumatic or an internal combustion engine driven rotary tool. There's something about water, grounded concrete and electricity that just doesn't mix.

    But I thank you for your time and effort!

    Joe
    https://ecom.granquartz.com/VIA9/via...ST&newWindow=Y

    this is a picture of one of the blades I was talking about.

    https://ecom.granquartz.com/VIA9/via...ST&newWindow=Y

    and here is a picture of an electric milwaukee worm gear saw with external water feed. I understand a person not feeling comfortable but remember when we use tools this way the water is being directed at the blade not the electrical parts of the saw or angle grinder. and you also aren't flooding it with water but using enough to keep the dust down and keep the blade cool. with out tools such as these work becomes much slower, all my saws are electric and my angle grinders are probally fairly evenly split.

    ok those links aren't working right but granquartz.com go to consumables and then go to turbo blades and click on one for a close up
    Last edited by havanagranite; 02-05-2008 at 10:24 PM. Reason: bad links

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    No need to get your hair curled now, is there.
    Exactly!

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    The wet saws that tile setters use are electric, by their design, the saw is not in contact with the water, nor you with the saw.
    Yes I'm familiar with the design, they're much like the CNC Lathe I used to operate back in the early 80's The "coolant" is recycled via a trough with a pump. I think most of the coolant catchers (on the tile cutters) are made of plastic(an insulator), the trick here is control of the coolants location. Also I'd bet my bottom dollar they've got a dedicated ground prong as well. Unlike most "Double Insulated" 2 prong hand held power-tools these days.

    I could just see my knees in the puddle as I push ever forward and in my fevered fight to follow the straight line water getting on my hands then running down the plastic "Double Insulated" grip an into the housing thus creating a circuit where I'm the light bulb.


    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    You mentioned a plexiglass box, unless it has some sort of ventilation (unclear from your post), by the time you get the saw through the tile you'll have to leave because you can't see or breath.
    Here's my invention: Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Tool Dust Glovebox.jpg 
Views:	165 
Size:	18.4 KB 
ID:	702 I had my 2 year old son draw it for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes.
    No Problem!

    Joe

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