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  1. #11
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    Feb 2008
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by havanagranite View Post
    ok those links aren't working right but granquartz.com go to consumables and then go to turbo blades and click on one for a close up
    That's a weird site, when I click on the item number or picture it kicks me back out to the main home page (using Firefox).

    But I saw the saw (tiny pic) and read the nomenclature. Hey, I believe you, but with regard to the saw, some company also used to sell both a VCR tape head cleaner and a CD player lens cleaner.

    In case you're not in the know, they're both useless garbage and can actually harm your equipment. Not to be mean (and I was younger) but us techs used to have a really hard time keeping a straight face when a customer said: "I don't understand it I used the cleaning tape/cd all the time."

    And the moral of the story is: They'll sell you ANYTHING!!!

    Anything can happen and when you mix both electricity and a fluid conductor things can get out of hand real quick. Then there's complacency with everyday use.

    Pneumatic and ICEngine rotary tools are a smarter choice when using an electrically conductive fluid coolant, those tile wet cutting stations that A.Spruce mentioned as well as the many varieties of milling machines are an exception due to their design.

    I'll be buying the diamond blades this weekend so I'll check them out before purchase.


    Thanks,

    Joe

  2. #12
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    Feb 2008
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    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by YukYuk View Post
    Tape the top of the tile and draw a line. Tape the end of a carbide masonry drill bit to mark the length and drill a line of holes 3/4" on center. Remove the hole filled tape and replace with a piece of tape on the save side of the drilled line. Use a sharp cold chisel to complete the line for excavation then give the waste area a few cross cut nips.
    Unless I misunderstood you, thanks for the tip on cutting tiles with a drill when you don't have a diamond bladed rotary cutter.

    If you're referring to "unregistered"'s idea, I really need help in removing the tile from the concrete and thinset. If I could get all the tiles up I could rent one of those tile wet cutting stations that A.Spruce referred to. Of course his method is more time consuming and costly because you have to break and then remake the bond for the areas you intend to keep in place. I'd rather just remove exactly what I need to remove and be done with it. Which is probably what I'm going to do.

    Thanks for your tips,

    Joe

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    6,486

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by JosephBrian View Post
    Here's my invention: Attachment 702 I had my 2 year old son draw it for me.
    Kudo's to your son ...

    That may or may not work, it's certainly worth a shot. The problem I foresee is that the tile dust will be very fine and plug the shopvac filter in short order. Just have a roll of painters plastic, a couple rolls of duct tape to seal it to surrounding surfaces, and a big fan handy.

    I meant to touch on YukYuk's suggestion of using a series of holes and chiseling out the area in question. The jagged edge would be hidden by drywall and baseboard, so no harm there. The plus side is that this would be a relatively dust free means of removing the tile, however, it will be very labor intensive and take quit a long time to do accomplish.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    612

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    "True, at 8 holes per tile it could take an extra 3/4 hour or so versus the excuse to purchase a new tool and expensive blade and the neat challenge of building a safety and dust shielding system. I happened to already have the drill and bits handy and a cold chisel, and no desire to add to my downsized tool chest."

    I say no project is worth doing unless it involves the purchase of a new toyol!!! There is a heretic among us!!!

    My name is __________ and I am a toolaholic!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    980

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by JosephBrian View Post
    That's a weird site, when I click on the item number or picture it kicks me back out to the main home page (using Firefox).

    But I saw the saw (tiny pic) and read the nomenclature. Hey, I believe you, but with regard to the saw, some company also used to sell both a VCR tape head cleaner and a CD player lens cleaner.

    In case you're not in the know, they're both useless garbage and can actually harm your equipment. Not to be mean (and I was younger) but us techs used to have a really hard time keeping a straight face when a customer said: "I don't understand it I used the cleaning tape/cd all the time."

    And the moral of the story is: They'll sell you ANYTHING!!!

    Anything can happen and when you mix both electricity and a fluid conductor things can get out of hand real quick. Then there's complacency with everyday use.

    Pneumatic and ICEngine rotary tools are a smarter choice when using an electrically conductive fluid coolant, those tile wet cutting stations that A.Spruce mentioned as well as the many varieties of milling machines are an exception due to their design.

    I'll be buying the diamond blades this weekend so I'll check them out before purchase.


    Thanks,

    Joe
    you might be a techie but I'm in the granite business, I own a granite fabrication business right above tallahassee florida in a town called havana, my name is havana granite, the site I sent you to is one of the main tool suppliers for the granite industry all high production saws for natural stone are electric you can't get the same power from something air driven. I understand your nerves with regard to elec and water. but you have to understand now we have a wonderful invention called a ground fault, even if you are careless and get water in the saw still no shock, it throws the ground fault. you come to this site to ask for help and someone with knowledge in the industry offers a suggestion, you might not understand because not being in the trades and you don't have to agree but you should at least show a little courtesy.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    980

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by bp21901 View Post
    "True, at 8 holes per tile it could take an extra 3/4 hour or so versus the excuse to purchase a new tool and expensive blade and the neat challenge of building a safety and dust shielding system. I happened to already have the drill and bits handy and a cold chisel, and no desire to add to my downsized tool chest."

    I say no project is worth doing unless it involves the purchase of a new toyol!!! There is a heretic among us!!!

    My name is __________ and I am a toolaholic!
    see now even my wife understands this one

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by havanagranite View Post
    you might be a techie but I'm in the granite business, I own a granite fabrication business right above tallahassee florida in a town called havana, my name is havana granite, the site I sent you to is one of the main tool suppliers for the granite industry all high production saws for natural stone are electric you can't get the same power from something air driven. I understand your nerves with regard to elec and water. but you have to understand now we have a wonderful invention called a ground fault, even if you are careless and get water in the saw still no shock, it throws the ground fault. you come to this site to ask for help and someone with knowledge in the industry offers a suggestion, you might not understand because not being in the trades and you don't have to agree but you should at least show a little courtesy.
    Whoa EGO!!! I say again, WHOA EGO!! Your "ID" is thrashing about!!

    First a quote from Leviton's GFCI receptacle (same as CB) Instructions:
    "... a GFCI will trip and quickly stop the flow of electricity to prevent serious injury."
    and
    "A GFCI receptacle does NOT protect against circuit overloads, short circuits, or shocks."

    Here's a little fact from the United States Federal Government via DOD and the United States Navy.
    'While on duty if you experience an electrical shock no matter how slight you are ordered to immediately go to sick bay and receive an ECG (EKG).'

    Now do some math Mr. Havana Granite.

    You had no right to take offense for my difference of opinion as you had not informed me of your credentials, as if they mattered. You were just some person "helping" me. And you have no clue what mine are, so let me tell you.

    Your credentials mean nothing. Have you attended college? I have!
    And Philosophy has an interesting axiom that goes something like this: 'The only thing we truly know is that we don't know."

    So lets add something to that from my Psychology 101, 102 & 103 class's which asserts that sometimes: 'our EGO selfishly comes before our benevolence,' case in point.

    Now I'm sure you can understand why I said that your credentials really don't matter. But if you insist here we go...

    At my university I was on the deans list 75% of the time.
    My IQ while not earth shattering is above average(122), at 136. Associated with that number is the title "Visionary Philosopher."

    As you can see above the USA agrees with me or should I say, I agree with them. After 16 years of their teachings as a maintenance tech in the aviation field in the USN. I took on NASA AMES RESEARCH CENTER and NAS MOFFETT FIELD and WON with regards to the 440 volt 3 phase power outlets found on the entire base being reverse phased. I left the USN with 3 Honorable Discharges and was begged to stay, by our Tech Rep who happened to be a LT in the reserves, because I was the kind of sailor they needed.

    Trades??? Come on now? Since you want to thrust out your chest and tout credentials I believe mine outweigh yours. Lets see florida state government or UNITED STATES FEDERAL GOVERNMENT, Hmmmm tough choice. Who established baselines for building codes that states can only exceed, never supercede? I believe it's the "NEC" with regards to electrial. Do you know what the "N" stands for? Everyone who's anyone knows MILSPEC is superior to any civilian spec.

    Finally, I was very courteous, did you see my "thank you?" Where's yours? I was never disrespectful until now, after you started down the path to the darkside.

    I'm truly sorry if I've hurt your feelings and questioned your authority in an open forum.

    Now if we can dispense with this testosterone engorged, chest pounding BS, let's get back to the point.

    You had your turn and now I've had mine. As far as I'm concerned we're through. Any future chest pounding done by you will find blind eyes.

    Did you think I was a kid? I turned 50 on Oct 25th 2007.

    I TRULY do appreciate your effort, Thank You very much!

    Further, I hope you have a wonderful life, you and your family.


    Joe

    P.S. Are you familiar with the music artist: Dave Mason? He's got this song, goes something like this: "There ain't no good guy, There ain't no bad guy, There's only you and me and we just disagree." Peace my brother!
    Last edited by JosephBrian; 02-06-2008 at 05:38 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    I foresee is that the tile dust will be very fine and plug the shopvac filter in short order.
    I was thinking the very same, I'd built it for my skilsaw/wood cutting blade and it worked fine with the larger particulate.

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    I meant to touch on YukYuk's suggestion of using a series of holes and chiseling out the area in question. The jagged edge would be hidden by drywall and baseboard, so no harm there. The plus side is that this would be a relatively dust free means of removing the tile, however, it will be very labor intensive and take quit a long time to do accomplish.
    Yes, now I see thanks to your expansion on his idea. Some are more articulate than others. I will consider his method but I'll have to buy a much smaller masonary drill bit. My smallest is 1/4".

    Thanks to you both, my wife will prefer his idea, I'm sure.

    Joe

  9. #19
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    Feb 2008
    Posts
    26

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by YukYuk View Post
    True, at 8 holes per tile it could take an extra 3/4 hour or so versus the excuse to purchase a new tool and expensive blade and the neat challenge of building a safety and dust shielding system. I happened to already have the drill and bits handy and a cold chisel, and no desire to add to my downsized tool chest.

    The post excavation of tile bits and thinset would be the same. Regarding excavation, a sharp cold chisel, a flat bar, a toothed chisel (thinset from slab), a mallet or hammer, or possibly a grinding wheel since you'll have your dust system.
    Thanks YukYuk, I may use your idea. I'm surprised I hadn't thought of it because I've used it before many years ago on a wooden project before I got my scroll saw.

    I'm getting old. I think I'm experiencing Half-Heimers

    Thanks again,

    Joe

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    6,486

    Default Re: Remove 4" parallel section of tile for plate

    Quote Originally Posted by JosephBrian View Post
    Yes, now I see thanks to your expansion on his idea. Some are more articulate than others. I will consider his method but I'll have to buy a much smaller masonary drill bit. My smallest is 1/4".

    Thanks to you both, my wife will prefer his idea, I'm sure.

    Joe
    I would actually go the other direction, and use a 3/8" or possibly a 1/2" bit. You'll be able to knock off the jagged tips of the sections between the drilled holes fairly easily without worry of damage to the remaining tile. Remove the section of tile where the wall plate will lay, then go back and clean up the edges a little bit if need be.

    A note on the vacuum, I've got a 1 gallon shopvac I use for quick clean-up of small areas. There have been times I've sucked up concrete dust from drilling a few holes and the filter almost immediately plugged. The filter area of the 1 gallon vac is the same as on a larger unit, so using a larger vacuum isn't going to change things. Also, I believe that sucking up a pile of dust is vastly different than filtering air bourne dust, the latter likely to plug the filter faster.

    Whatever you decide to do, please report back with your progress. We always like to know what works and what doesn't and how things turned out. And don't forget the pictures, we're suckers for pictures.

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