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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    693

    Default Re: waterheater elements

    Quote Originally Posted by jmartin View Post
    lol! yeah,seems about right.it is a "Conservationist" model.so is 3000w the max i should go?
    Any load over 3 hours is continuous and can not be loaded to more than 80% according to the NEC and your load could be one.

    We still do not know if your H2O heater is fed with a 30Amp 240Volt circuit............ But if it is......

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    5

    Default Re: waterheater elements

    Quote Originally Posted by NEC View Post
    Any load over 3 hours is continuous and can not be loaded to more than 80% according to the NEC and your load could be one.

    We still do not know if your H2O heater is fed with a 30Amp 240Volt circuit............ But if it is......
    yes heater is on 30amp/240v circuit.i have already replaced high and low thermos.isn't rod usually in from top?don't see one.perhaps a prehistoric unit?
    Last edited by jmartin; 12-06-2009 at 04:01 PM. Reason: spelling

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    The Great White North
    Posts
    4,045

    Default Re: waterheater elements

    Quote Originally Posted by jmartin View Post
    hi all.thanks for the advice.everything mentioned (wire,crossed pipes,and such)check out ok.i did not check anode rod though.seems like as good a place to start.how does it affect the amount of hot water in storage?
    It really doesn't affect the amount of hot water --- it was the dip tube that was mentioned ---- not the anode rod.

    If the cold water dip tube is cracked or broken close to the top of the tank would have the cold water level too far up the tank.
    Undo the cold water inlet and pipe nipple and remove dip tube. Check condition and replace if required.

    Modern electric heaters are wired for "non-simultaneous operation". What this means is that when filled with cold water the upper element comes on first. Once the upper part of the tank is hot power is switched to the lower element which heats the majority of the water.

    The purpose of the upper element is to provide quicker hot water and perhaps to give a little redundancy so that one doesn't completely run out of hot water should the lower element fail.

    When the top of the tank is hot the upper thermostat removes power from the upper heating element and transfers the power to the lower thermostat and heating element. If the lower thermostat is defective, then the lower portion of the tank will not be heated and the supply will be greatly reduced.

    Check for power at the upper thermostat terminals where the power is sent to the lower thermostat and heating element. If there is no power then the upper thermostat should be replaced.

    If there is power then check for power at the lower heating element. If there is no power at the lower heating element then replace the lower thermostat.

    If there is power to the lower heating element then it should be getting hot. If it is not, replace it.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Shamokin, Pa.
    Posts
    645

    Default Re: waterheater elements

    Quote Originally Posted by NEC View Post
    I'd first make sure both elements are working properly.

    I'd bet the heater is fed with #10 cu wire. If you change the elements out to 4500's you will draw 37.5 amps if both are burning and # 10 is only good for 30 amps.

    A cheap trick would change the lower element out to 1500w.

    Edit: Women tend to be problematic on more than one level...... You may want to give that consideration as well.
    I can not recall ever seeing a water heater that had the elements sized differently. Is this common?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: waterheater elements

    seems to be yes
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