Quote Originally Posted by JacktheShack View Post
You state that the psi gauge "can't hold more than 10 psi" and the "inlet valve starts hissing air and leaks water".

This indicates that you have some water leaks in the piping; are you saying you got the gauge up to 10 psi, and then it dropped back down to 4 or 5 psi???
the gauge is going up to 10 psi on the outer black numbered part of the gauge, but is not going any higher and today has dropped close to zero.

Quote Originally Posted by JacktheShack View Post
Are you handy, & have you soldered copper tubing in the past??
no, i haven't. the most complicated plumbing-related task i've completed was hooking up my washer to hot/cold water and dryer to the gas line.

Quote Originally Posted by JacktheShack View Post
I couldn't make out from the photo if the ARROW at the base of the reducing valve is pointing toward the BOILER SIDE of the system (as it should).
the boiler is on the opposite side of the arrow and caption in the picture.

Quote Originally Posted by JacktheShack View Post
You mentioned "ports for the 1st and 2nd floor pipes"; could you post a photo of these "port valves" (I assume this is the only way to get air out of the system).

this is for the 2nd floor. the port is at 7 o'clock of the valve.

Quote Originally Posted by JacktheShack View Post
You might try adjusting the TOP SCREW OR KNOB of the pressure reducing valve clockwise to see if you can get any water into the boiler using THAT method.
tried that. i loosened a nut that seemed to be holding it in place, but the screw won't budge.


Quote Originally Posted by JacktheShack View Post
I notice in one of the photos that there is already a hose connected to the drain valve.

What is the purpose of this hose, and have you used it in the past to add water to the boiler??
this hose actually cuts off another few inches below the photo, i used it to drain the boiler as you instructed earlier in this discussion thread.

Quote Originally Posted by JacktheShack View Post
In any event, to get 15 psi of water into the boiler thru the drain valve, attach one end of a garden hose to an outside faucet, or any faucet that will take the female hose fitting; attach the other end to the boiler drain fitting; you may have to use a 4' washing machine hose as an adapter to go from the male garden hose fitting to the boiler drain valve fitting.

Leave the boiler drain faucet closed momentarily and turn the garden hose faucet on.

Tighten any garden hose connections that are leaking; then SLOWLY open the boiler drain valve, and watch the boiler gauge; you want to allow cold water into the boiler gradually at first, so you don't shock the cast iron sections.

When the boiler gauge reads 15 psi, shut off the boiler drain valve.

If some of the fittings around the pressure reducing valve start to leak (as noted in your previous post), you will have to place a bucket under them and replace the leaking fittings yourself (or try to replace the stem packing), or call for a service tech to do it.

Please post back to advise how the procedure goes.
i followed this procedure, and got the pressure gauge to read right in between 10 and 30 on the red side of the pressure gauge where it reads "altitude" (is this the side of the gauge i should be looking at?). at first, the water inlet valve was leaking a bit and pressure wouldn't climb, but i tightened the nut at the base and got it to stop leaking and pressure to go up. i will wait a few hours and see if heat comes back on... the pipes going up to the first and second floor used to be cold, but now they are both hot. if the heat does not come back on, i will try to bleed air out of the system by using the ports by the 1st and 2nd floor piping flow control valves.