+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Unregistered Guest

    Question Installing Beadboard Sheets in Bathroom with Unlevel Floors

    I'm installing plywood beadboard in a bathroom. The beadboard will be installed on top of the baseboard for aesthetic reasons and I'll also be installing a chair rail and top cap. The floors in the bathroom are out of level along 3 of the 4 walls. For the right finished look, I obviously want to have the chair rail/top cap to be pretty close to dead level. By mounting the baseboard flush with the floor and the beadboard right on top of that, I will obviously be out of parallel with my layout line for the top of the beadboard and, thus, the chair rail/top cap. This will also create a bad appearance where the perpendicular beads meet the door casing which is plumb. I suppose my two choices are 1) taper cut the baseboard before installing to make it level and square with the door casings or 2) just mount the baseboard flush with the floor and cut each section of plywood to size. Does this sound right? Any tips from the pros out there?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007

    Thumbs up Re: Installing Beadboard Sheets in Bathroom with Unlevel Floors

    That's great. I think I got it but I'm going to sleep on it. Will certainly come back for clarification now that I know where to go.

    Thank you, DwarfWytch.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007

    Default Re: Installing Beadboard Sheets in Bathroom with Unlevel Floors

    Yep, gotcha on perfect. My objective will be plumb bead lines that are 1) parallel with door casings and other vertical members and 2) square with dead level layout lines for chair rail/top cap. By scribing off of the floor or baseboard, any inconsistencies will be pushed to where the beadboard meets the base and out of the main line of sight. Invariably, the bottom of the beads will be a bit out of square with the top of the baseboard but that's life in a 1904 house.

    The scribe idea is really perfect and, since I haven't installed the baseboard yet, I don't even think I have to offset scribe as we discussed. Rather, I'll pin the top of the beadboard level with my layout lines, sandwich it between the baseboard and the wall, scribe/trace the line and cut to size.

    To the extent I end up with any small inconsistencies at the top, I can always tweak the chair rail up/down a bit since it overlaps the top inch of the beadboard.

    Thank you again.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts