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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1

    Default foundation issues

    I would like to pour a new footing and foundation wall along side the inner perimeter of an existing clay tile foundation wall. Iím about to rehab an old house (1899) which has a double thickness of tile block for the foundation and outer wall. The two walls run parallel and appear to be independent. The inner wall was built with pockets to support the floor joist. This wall has deteriorated to a point that the floors are no longer level. It appears that the grout has deteriorated beyond repair. All that remains is a dry chalk like fine powder between the clay tiles. Everything should be replaced, so this is why I think it would be best to build two new levels atop new foundation walls. I would like remove the inner foundation wall and pour a new concrete footing / foundation wall adjacent to the existing outer foundation wall. I will be forming one side with plywood 2x4ís and structural bracing as required. My main concern is can I pour a footing and foundation wall against the existing wall thus forming the configuration of an L, or is it best to center the foundation wall on the footing thus forming an inverted T. The T configuration would evenly distribute the loads but would leave a space between the existing wall and the new wall. The L configuration which Iím in favor of would fill the void between the two walls, but would not center the loads. Forming for the walls would be quicker and easier also. Any response, suggestion or another technique would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    443

    Default Re: foundation issues

    harvey:

    Could you post some photos that would provide a better idea of your project.

    Its hard to visualize some of the aspects of your proposed project by reading the post.

    There are a number of issues here:

    I've never heard of "tiles" being used for a foundation; do you mean vitrified clay tiles that are in the shape of thin bricks????

    What are the tiles made of???

    If you want to diy, you probably can, but how many cubic yds of soil & tile would you have to excavate out of the cellar, & would you have to get it out by wheelbarrow, or elec. conveyor belt into a dumpster.

    Is there room to get a small skid loader/ excavator in there????

    These would make it a lot easier to excavate what you need out of there quickly.

    You would need a crew of several people to help you on this, I wouldn't attempt it alone.

    Have you consulted the Yellow Pages under "Foundation Contractors" to get an estimate & idea of how they would do it??

    Also in the Yellow Pages is "Engineers, Civil", who charge ~$500 to visit the site, draw up plans of the best way to shore up the house structure while you're excavating.

    Have you consulted the town building code division??

    Some towns won't permit diy work on a foundation, many insist on plans from a civil engineer first, & some towns, depending on where you live, don't care & will allow you to do it.

    You have to pull a permit if your town requires it; most do.

    There are several ways to shore up the foundation, excavate, install the forms & pour the concrete.

    The fee for an engineer sounds like a lot, but they will show you how to safely shore up the site pour the concrete in stages using steel rebar to tie each staged pour into the next one so that it's done right & keeps you & the crew safe.

    Hiring an engineer or foundation contractor will save you a lot of grief and wasted effort; believe me, it's well worth it.

    You are legally liable if someone is seriously hurt, so check your homeowner's policy to see if this is covered on it.

    The Nemmar site has a few examples of foundation work.

    Go to the Nemmar site & click onto "structural problems- page 1" then click onto diagrams 0230 (bench footing) and 0231 (underpinning); also 256 (adding a buttress); 257 (adding a pilaster); 258 (reinforcing from inside); 260 (adding an interior wall).

    I do not recommend hiring a concrete ready mix truck for the pour, they usually blow out the forms.

    Mixing by hand is a lot of work; concrete masonry blocks can also be used.

    Access via the 1st floor is a lot easier if it will be a concrete pour.

    If the diagrams won't load, Google "Nemmar Real Estate illustrations" & load the "catched" version of the site.

    http://www.nemmar.com/real-estate-Ho...ns-Main-2.html
    Last edited by JacktheShack; 11-12-2007 at 10:14 PM.

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