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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    2

    Question Low Water Pressure

    I had a new well pump installed a couple years ago and after about a year my water softner started leaking, I had two professionals come out and both said it could not be fixed because of the age of it. I opted to by-pass the water softner because I could not afford a new one.

    Here I am about 9 months later and have very little water pressure throughout the house.

    Could this be caused from calcium build up in the pipes in a 9 month period? If so is there anything on the market that can clean the pipes?
    I have a blue air tank which I figured is to control the water pressure, I checked it the other day and it had 52 PSI, is that sufficient? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Thank you!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fayette County, Ohio
    Posts
    5,842

    Default Re: Low Water Pressure

    Your pump may have picked up some silt or sand and with the softener bypassed sent it through the system. The first thing I would do is remove the aerators on the faucets and see if they are clogged.
    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,131

    Default Re: Low Water Pressure

    dnolan,

    From here ...it's hard to say exactly what the problem or problems might be. But, JL's advice is good as regards the potential for clogged aerators and showerhead, etc.

    You say you have a "blue tank". This is almost certainly your pressure tank. Does the supply line from this tank connect on the very bottom of the unit or does the supply connect near the bottom on the side of the tank? (Look closely as some of these tanks have a skirt-type support under the bottom of the actual tank thru which the pipe passes and then connects to the very bottom of the tank itself. Don't get fooled by a quick glance.)

    If on the very bottom of the tank, you likely have a bladder-type tank and your problem could then be caused by a torn and collapsed bladder. Sometimes a torn or ruptured bladder will collapse in a manner that partially or even totally blocks off the supply pipe and the end result is then poor water flow to the house...or even no flow at all.

    There are methods to check for this problem, but I won't go into that unless in turns out that your aerators are not slugged with gunk.

    The 52# reading you took doesn't mean much unless we know that you first turned off the breaker to the well pump and then ran water until you heard the pressure switch click to turn the pump back on. It's at that very moment that you'd want to VERY quickly turn off the faucet you had on to draw water..........and then you'd take the pressure reading from the tank with an accurate tire gauge. Before that reading is then meaningful you'd also need to know what range of pressure switch you have on the pump. (Standard switches would come preset at 20-40 or 30-50 or 40-60) Hopefully, you have a pressure gauge somewhere near the tank that you can watch while the system cycles so that you can determine at what pressure the well pump turns on and what pressure it turns off again. For this you need to have the pump turned on and be drawing water somewhere nearby so that you can watch while you force a pump start and subsequent pump shut down. IOW, a complete cycling of the system.

    (Alternately, you could also use this gauge to see at what exact pressure the pump switch clicked on during the "pump-off" static drawdown test....instead of using a tire gauge.)

    Ideally, the precharge of a pressure tank should be approx. two lbs less than the turn-on setting of the pressure switch. The charge is adjusted after turning off the pump, drawing down the tank just till the pressure switch clicks (stop drawing water immediately) and then raising or lowering the precharge air pressure......if it needs adjustment.
    Last edited by goldhiller; 11-04-2007 at 07:24 PM.

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