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  1. #1

    Question New Shingle Roof Install and Need Some Good Advice

    Hi

    I am located in Maryland and getting ready to have a contractor install a new 3 layer shingle roof on the main roof atop my house and the roof which overhangs my front porch area and I know absolutely 0 about what he is suppose to properly do ...
    He has provided me with the estimate and contract , I have not signed the contract yet because I wanted to get some know how on what he has listed as what steps he will provide in the install ...
    I am quoting From the contract :
    " We propose to remove the existing roof shingles down to the wood . Cover the entire area with 15LB roof felt , and bad wood that has to be replaced will cost extra 3.00 per foot . To flash chimney, to install vent collars around all pipes. Then install a 25 year factory bonded roof shingle , front porch roof will be included in the cost of the job . Dormors will not be included in this price of the job. Will haul away all debris and old roof shingles, clean gutters and yard . Cost is 6300.00 with a deposit of 1/2 down before starting work .".

    OK, a question I have is this ... after clearing the old 3 layers of shingle off the roof down to the wood , how many layers of roof felt should be applied , from what I get from his writing hee's covering it with 1 layer , is this sufficient and is there a particular roof felt that should be used ?

    Also with what I posted from his quoted contract writing is this a good deal and proper way to do this ???
    Please let me know anything that stands out to you as a potential red flag ... as I already stated I know 0 about this job .

    Thanks
    Last edited by NeedsGoodAdvice; 11-08-2007 at 09:16 PM. Reason: added more info

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    The deep South
    Posts
    459

    Default Re: New Shingle Roof Install and Need Some Good Advice

    I'm thinking you mean " 3 tab " rather than " 3 layer " shingle . One layer of roofing felt is correct . What about valley metal and drip edge ? Will this be needed ? I assume the Dormers need new shingles as well ? Make sure they run a magnet around to pick up the nails ( Most of them anyway )and make sure they protect any shrubbery etc . from damage .

  3. #3

    Default Re: New Shingle Roof Install and Need Some Good Advice

    Thanks for your response ...

    Hmmmm ... Not sure what 3 tab is , However, My roof has 3 Layers of shingles meaning if on the roof and you lift up a shingle , there is anoher under that and another under that , then the felt paper ... not sure if the correct term is 3 tab or not ?

  4. #4

    Default Re: New Shingle Roof Install and Need Some Good Advice

    I should add that in addition to me honestly knowing 0 about a proper roof install job , I did a google and saw this ( below) which really got me a wondering ??? , I Just dont want this to be the Roof Install from H**L and want the job done correctly with no headaches after the job is done :

    The sequence of laying a felt roof is:


    Preparing the roof.
    Laying the first, nailed, layer of Underlay felt. This layer is not bonded to the decking so that the decking can move without damaging the felt roof.

    Laying the second, bonded, layer of Underlay felt.
    Installing any gutter drips.

    Laying the top bonded layer of Top Sheet felt.
    Installing any verge edge and edging to a vertical wall and flashing.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,131

    Default Re: New Shingle Roof Install and Need Some Good Advice

    NGA,

    Sorry, but there's no way for us to determine if this is a good/reasonable deal or not because you didn't indicate how squares are involved, how steep the roof is (pitch), how many valleys are involved, etc.....and also is impossible for me personally because prices/costs vary dramatically across the USA.

    And..........there is no designation of which brand of "25-year" shingle will be used. Cheapo shingles from a big-box won't cost nearly as much as high-quality shingles......and they won't perform/last nearly as well over the long haul. All shingle warranties are pro-rated. By year 5 you won't get squat for an adjustment and adjustments virtually never include any of labor to replace the shingles; only the pro-rated replacement value of the shingles themselves. Since labor is almost always the biggest expense when roofing with asphalt shingles, installing cheap shingles is akin to shooting yourself in the foot.......with a 12 gauge shotgun.

    I see no mention of ice & water membrane. ???

    As previously pointed out, there is no designation of valley materials.....or the type/style to be used. Depending upon your roof configuration, W-valleys may be in order.

    The dormers are not included in the price. Does this mean that the dormers are not being re-shingled at this time ???.....or that the price of doing those is "open-ended"?

    Personally......I won't recommend and detest installing 3-tab shingles. Pretty much won't do it. Reason being that the wales/slits in 3-tab shingles create water-channeling down the roof and there is only single thickness coverage in those wales. The channeling effect directs streams of water into the wales and the further down the roof the water goes, the more water there is and the more erosion takes place ......right where the coverage is only single thickness. Consequently, the lowest courses of shingles on the roof will erode thru in the wales before the rest of the roof is shot.......and presto.......it's time to reshingle again. 3-tabs are a poor investment. Instead, install a "slab" shingle or architectural shingle because they have no wales cut into them.

    Here's a link to a look at a 3-tab shingle. http://www.tamko.com/ProductDisplayP...3/Default.aspx Notice the wales/slits cut into the shingles which are in alignment every other course? That's what causes the erosive channeling as the water gathers and progresses down the roof. The actual coverage in those wales is only a single thickness while the rest of the roof is double-coverage. Doesn't make good sense, does it?

    Here's a look at an archy shingle. No wales to channel water and double coverage virtually everywhere. http://www.certainteed.com/CertainTe...sProdIndex.htm

    Did you get a price/proposal from more than one roofing contractor? If so, are you choosing the cheapest of those prices?
    Choosing a roofer and roofing materials is not remotely comparable to shopping around for the best/lowest price for the identical automobile.

    I'm not saying that these guys won't do a quality job for you, just that there seems to be unanswered questions and undesignated items. Have you contacted any of their references yet? Have you seen proof of insurance? Proof of workmen's comp?

    Edit: Come to think of it......I also didn't see any mention of installing a ridge vent or pan vents if a ridge vent won't work, nor mention of soffit/intake venting. Maybe the roof is already properly vented?
    Last edited by goldhiller; 11-08-2007 at 11:45 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: New Shingle Roof Install and Need Some Good Advice

    Below is a link to a site that explains how to redo a roof and includes pictures. I recommend that you get at least 3 quotes, and ask your neighbors for recomendations/references. Regarding price, I live 30 miles from Manhattan where prices are generally higher (yee gads, you wouldn't believe the taxes, I'm considering moving!) than many areas of the country. I received a quote for a new roof of 2000 sq feet which includes 3 dormers, for $13,000. This price includes removal and disposal of the existing roof, flashing, drip edge, 30 LB felt, snow/ice shield, ridge venting, "50" year asphalt architectural shingles, copper chimney flashing, EPDM on a low slope area (drives up the price) and a 10 year labor warranty. Any underlying plywood to be replaced at $2.10 sq ft' installation included, if required.

    http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/r...e/prep/dry.htm

    Hope this helps. Good luck.

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