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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1

    Default Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    I was at Lowes today exploring flooring options for a bathroom. I was considering Sheet Vinyl, Tile or Lamininate flooring. I saw that Armstrong has a new product called "Cera Strong". It's a self-stick Vinyl tile with rounded edges that you can use with or without grout.

    This looks exactly like what I'd like to do. The problem is, I can't find ANYTHING ****** about this product. Lowes says that it's brand new. Does anybody have any experience with durability and grout adhesion? It reccomends "sanded acrylic" grout be used.

    Thank you for your help in advance. I am a novice and am planning on doing a whole bunch of minor remodels with this being my first project!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,131

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    Pam,

    Never heard of the product.

    Not a fan of self-stick tiles and so wouldn't use them, let alone try to place grout between them.

    My fear is that this is yet another product intended to appeal to the growing crowd of novice DIYers........which won't render quality long-lasting results.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    6,481

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    Ditto ****ies thoughts.

    Peel and stick tiles do not provide a water tight surface. If the tiles are exposed to sunlight/heat, they shrink, discolor and curl. Put your hard earned money towards sheet vinyl or ceramic tile, you won't be sorry.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    6

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    If your looking for a good quality vinyl tile, go with Nafco Permanstone of with Congoleum Duracermic. You can go grouted or ungrouted on the Dura Ceramic which is a limestone based product with a vinly covering. The only probelms we have had with this product is that with the ungrouted application, the tile are not 100% square. If you do use the ungrouted system you will also need to seal the edges. The Nafco Permastone is a pure vinyl product with grout lines made into the tile. Each tile has two grout lines so that they will be seamless when placed together.

    www.nafco.com
    www.congoleum.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    35

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    The only one who will be happy you used that ridiculous stuff will be the tile pro you will have to call in to fix it.

    Did you really say self-stick tiles on a bathroom floor? The way this works is, they sell you whatever you're gullible enough to buy, then they'll sell you more stuff to fix it, then they'll sell even more stuff to fix that. The stockholders get more dividends and you keep throwing money away fixing the mess you could have avoided -- throwing it away to the stockholders, that is! And they already have more money than you do -- THEY are investing while you're looking to DIY to save money! THEY operate on the P.T. Barnum Principle: "A sucker born every minute!"

    For a project you will be proud of, choose a ceramic tile, and a grout color. (One whole wing of the library on that subject!) Either buy a bunch of tools you may never use again, or call a pro. If you think you'll do more tile, fine, invest in the tools.

    It goes like this:
    1. Clean CDX subfloor (anything else, check back here).
    2. Mortar and screw down cementitious backerboard (CBB); must be latex modified thinset mortar over CDX; apply fiberglas mesh tape to any joints with same thinset. Next day:
    3. Set tile with same thinset: Spread then "comb" with 1/4" notched trowell held at 45 degrees to the floor, then "butter" the backside of each tile with mortar just before you set it tight against the previously laid tiles and press and wiggle it down into the mortar; THEN slide it the grout-joint-width away and place grout-joint spacers. ("Butter" means just fill all the depressions on the back of the tile with thinset.)
    4. With damp sponge, keep wiping up all mortar on tiles, and between them in the grout joint with a corner forced down into the joint when necessary; keep working clean to save work later.
    5. Either when finished setting tile, OR the day before starting that, cut (if necessary) & set each marble threshhold -- some of us call them "saddles" -- in each doorway.

    Some insist on setting saddles last, like the last tile to go down to finish the job. I always do this the day before tiling, after the CBB is set & taped, and that's what I recommend to others, for two reasons: Doorways are often off-kilter, and I'd rather cut the tile to the angled saddle than have the saddle not line up with the doorframe; and, when set after the tile, people seem to get an irresistable urge to admire the tile by stepping onto the freshly-set saddle and breaking it! One guy I knew had this happen three times in one evening with the same customer! But it won't break once the mortar's firmed up from the day before...

    Do not try to grout the same day. But the longer you wait, the more cleaning, especially of the grout joints, you will have to do. Even if nobody goes in there... Dirt from Europe will get in there...

    6. After working very clean the day before, clean up everything you missed before grouting. Then grout, using a latex additive. This is almost another wing on the library, but home centers hold periodic How-To workshops. The main thing to remember is, if you use sanded ("floor") grout, once it firms up, you are DONE. Whereas unsanded ("wall") grout can be rubbed down further with a damp sponge after it firms up, even during the next few days. The other thing to remember is, do not fill between the floor tile and any verticle plane, especially the tub -- use matching caulk. (Same with wall tile: All corners get caulk not grout.) Clean up as well as possible but don't go crazy trying to rinse away all haze; that ain't gonna happen in a hundred rinses. When it looks clean while wet, it is.
    7. When all is dry, and before caulking, polish the haze away with cheap plain white washcloths from Wal-Mart, etc. Then caulk all around. Keep the caulk level with the edge of the tile as much as possible, rather than (literally) climbing the walls.
    8. If baseboards are to go in place, I strongly suggest using a bead of clear silicone under the bottom edge to keep water from escaping, rotting the baseboard, etc. DON'T get any unpaintable caulk on the face of the BB, however. If you tiled up to the baseboards, they are the vertical planes that get matching caulk as in 6. above.

    You now have a thousand year floor in a hundred year house. And bragging rights to match.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    I do mid- to high-end rental unit maintenance and improvement; a property owner requested vinyl floor in a bathroom remodel due to cost savings over ceramic (which I prefer to install)

    I went with a self-stick, rounded edge tile and, at the recommendation of the salesperson at the store, I chose to grout the floor with a premixed grout. Grouting the self-stick tiles also brings the floor up to building code for bathrooms, which (in MN) requires a floor impervious to water and dirt.

    If you're looking for an inexpensive flooring option thats simple to install and will last possibly 10 years (if you prime the subfloor with the recommended primer), self-stick tiles may be the way to go if you'd like to save money over ceramic.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    1

    Angry Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    Quote Originally Posted by C Ed Wright View Post
    The only one who will be happy you used that ridiculous stuff will be the tile pro you will have to call in to fix it.

    Did you really say self-stick tiles on a bathroom floor? The way this works is, they sell you whatever you're gullible enough to buy, then they'll sell you more stuff to fix it, then they'll sell even more stuff to fix that. The stockholders get more dividends and you keep throwing money away fixing the mess you could have avoided -- throwing it away to the stockholders, that is! And they already have more money than you do -- THEY are investing while you're looking to DIY to save money! THEY operate on the P.T. Barnum Principle: "A sucker born every minute!"

    For a project you will be proud of, choose a ceramic tile, and a grout color. (One whole wing of the library on that subject!) Either buy a bunch of tools you may never use again, or call a pro. If you think you'll do more tile, fine, invest in the tools.

    It goes like this:
    1. Clean CDX subfloor (anything else, check back here).
    2. Mortar and screw down cementitious backerboard (CBB); must be latex modified thinset mortar over CDX; apply fiberglas mesh tape to any joints with same thinset. Next day:
    3. Set tile with same thinset: Spread then "comb" with 1/4" notched trowell held at 45 degrees to the floor, then "butter" the backside of each tile with mortar just before you set it tight against the previously laid tiles and press and wiggle it down into the mortar; THEN slide it the grout-joint-width away and place grout-joint spacers. ("Butter" means just fill all the depressions on the back of the tile with thinset.)
    4. With damp sponge, keep wiping up all mortar on tiles, and between them in the grout joint with a corner forced down into the joint when necessary; keep working clean to save work later.
    5. Either when finished setting tile, OR the day before starting that, cut (if necessary) & set each marble threshhold -- some of us call them "saddles" -- in each doorway.

    Some insist on setting saddles last, like the last tile to go down to finish the job. I always do this the day before tiling, after the CBB is set & taped, and that's what I recommend to others, for two reasons: Doorways are often off-kilter, and I'd rather cut the tile to the angled saddle than have the saddle not line up with the doorframe; and, when set after the tile, people seem to get an irresistable urge to admire the tile by stepping onto the freshly-set saddle and breaking it! One guy I knew had this happen three times in one evening with the same customer! But it won't break once the mortar's firmed up from the day before...

    Do not try to grout the same day. But the longer you wait, the more cleaning, especially of the grout joints, you will have to do. Even if nobody goes in there... Dirt from Europe will get in there...

    6. After working very clean the day before, clean up everything you missed before grouting. Then grout, using a latex additive. This is almost another wing on the library, but home centers hold periodic How-To workshops. The main thing to remember is, if you use sanded ("floor") grout, once it firms up, you are DONE. Whereas unsanded ("wall") grout can be rubbed down further with a damp sponge after it firms up, even during the next few days. The other thing to remember is, do not fill between the floor tile and any verticle plane, especially the tub -- use matching caulk. (Same with wall tile: All corners get caulk not grout.) Clean up as well as possible but don't go crazy trying to rinse away all haze; that ain't gonna happen in a hundred rinses. When it looks clean while wet, it is.
    7. When all is dry, and before caulking, polish the haze away with cheap plain white washcloths from Wal-Mart, etc. Then caulk all around. Keep the caulk level with the edge of the tile as much as possible, rather than (literally) climbing the walls.
    8. If baseboards are to go in place, I strongly suggest using a bead of clear silicone under the bottom edge to keep water from escaping, rotting the baseboard, etc. DON'T get any unpaintable caulk on the face of the BB, however. If you tiled up to the baseboards, they are the vertical planes that get matching caulk as in 6. above.

    You now have a thousand year floor in a hundred year house. And bragging rights to match.
    This is not true. I had my house built 16 years ago. I had them, professional installers, install ceramic tile. Now, 16 years later, it's all cracking and it's all loose. Not sure what happened to my thoughts of at least having a fifty year old floor. I didn't even get twenty years out of it. I can't wait to have it ripped out and have vinyl flooring installed. I will NEVER again have ceramic flooring.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    I realize this may be too late to help you Pam but last week I used this in my bathrooms and I love them. I did use the grout for a tile look, but I am not a fan of the hardness of ceramic tile. It turned out great. It was a lot of work and would have been easier without the grout, but it looks great. We did have a hard time on the second bathroom with the grout not drying the same as the first bathroom. However, it was raining that day and I think the humidity was the difference. We used snips to cut it and the self-stick was great.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    The trick is that it isn't actually grout, but rather caulk. You can buy sanded acrylic caulk that is typically used between joints where ceramic tile meets walls, counters, or perpendicular pieces of tile. Both of the big box retailers sell this stuff, typically in the grout aisle. You just treat it like regular caulk, put it down in the gaps between the tiles, and then smoothe it with your finger and wipe off the excess. This will also allow for your tiles to expand/contract, as the caulk is more pliable than regular grout.

    You'd think some of the self proclaimed experts on here would have realized that when you said sanded acrylic that you actually were talking about caulk. You can add an acrylic additive to grout, but I wouldn't trust it with the shallow depth of these tiles.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: Self Stick Vinyl tiles w/grout

    Home depot is now selling these also, at 1.29 a sq ft. I to have found no info about them. First off they are resilent tiles and not actually just vinyl,they are lot thicker then vinyl and appear to hold up to moisture alot better, i even purchased a sample and threw it in water for a hour and it did not actually absorb the water, i was able to remove it from the water and wipe it down with no damage. I have not installed these yet but i plan on it.
    And as much as everyone has their own opinion- well different things work for different people so i will just point out the reasons why i am finding this product to be attractive.
    First because of its ease in installation- i can put it right on top of the other vinyl thats there, as with ceramic i would have to rip up the old flooring , including subflooring while checking the level of it all because in a older house things settle and i know ceramic tile would just crack if the time and money was not put into putting in a good and level base for the ceraminc , i figured that would have cost me around 700 if i did all the work myself which would have taken a long time!!
    The other thing that made me want tiles rather than sheet vinyl is because with 3 dogs and kids and spending lots of time in the kitchen (where i plan on putting it) well scrathces happen , and i would personally rather have a tile thats easy to cut out and remove and replace rather than having to scrap the whole floor because of a couple of scratches, as for high traffic on ceramic it hold up great as long as you nevr drop anything heavy on it - then you end up with cracked tiles.

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