+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2009

    Default hot water radiator

    Hi, can anyone help me with this question? I want to remove a hot water radiator. I know how to remove the radiator. My question is: AFTER I remove the radiator, do I need to attach the inlet and outlet pipes to keep the water circulating, or just put end caps onto the pipes to close them off? (There is a second hot water radiator in the same room.)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008

    Default Re: hot water radiator

    Whether you can just cap off the ends or add at least a 3/4" diameter connector pipe depends on the PIPING ARRANGEMENT you have in your heating system in that particular loop.

    The site below illustrates several piping arrangements that are common in hot water systems.

    Notice in the diagrams, if you have a ONE-PIPE SERIES LOOP it means that you would have to add a connector pipe to keep the system working---in all the other examples, monoflo, two-pipe direct, and two-pipe reverse, you could just cap them off.

    Unfortunately, the one-pipe series loop is most popular, so check it out.

    Since the piping is usually hidden behind the wall, or in the flooring, try to see if you can see the piping arrangement from the boiler room as it feeds the first floor rads, & then decide what you have to do.

    Another clue to check is if the rad has a SHUTOFF VALVE on its lower side---if it does, it probably means the connectors can just be capped---make sure the SHUTOFF VALVE is working both ON the piping loop & OFF the piping loop when you remove the rad---check by blowing air into the shutoff valve when it's in the on & off positions---air will pass in the ON position, but not in the OFF position.

    To avoid a water mess, you'll have to shut down the boiler temporarily by shutting off the on/off switch --also shut off the main water supply going into the boiler--- drain a gallon or two from the drain valve at the bottom of the boiler---open the bleed valve on the rad to be removed to allow air in so its water will drain---loosen the nuts holding it in place--if it still leaks water at the loosened nuts, retighten & drain another gallon at the boiler.

    There's a lot of black goo (iron oxide) in the bottom of cast iron rads that can really mess up your floor/carpet---spread a lot of old newspapers around & use a 2 X 4 or crow bar to tilt the rad on its end into a flat pan to get most of the goo out---then stuff some paper toweling on each end of the rad before removing it.

    Large rads weigh 300 lbs or more---don't hurt yourself---if it's large, remove the 2 long thru-nuts/bolts that run the length of the rad & pry the sections apart with a crowbar to lighten the load.

    After cap-off or installing the 3/4" copper connector, tighten all connections & add water to the boiler system by opening the main water supply to the boiler---the pressure reducing valve should pressurize the system to 12 psi of water--check the gauge on the boiler---check for leaks at the new connections---air pockets will have to be removed via the bleed valve on the remaining rad in the room.
    Last edited by NashuaTech; 11-14-2009 at 10:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009

    Default Re: hot water radiator

    Thanks! I know what to look for now.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts