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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Providence, RI
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    Default floating floor doorways

    I'm in the process of installing a laminate flooring product with a click-and-lock style joint on all four sides, and I've run into some difficulties installing in my doorways. I'm trying to install the product in a hallway that has doorways on both sides. The hallway is about 3.5 flooring panels wide with one doorway on one side and three doorways on the other.

    For the side of the hallway where I laid the first course, I followed the directions, and was successful in cutting the door molding trim and sliding the flooring underneath while still leaving room for expansion.

    However, on the opposite side of the hallway, I have the last course to install, and I have multiple doorways there as well.

    The problem is that if I cut the panel to fit the doorway, and slide under the trim, I can't get the panel into place, let alone lift it at an angle to mate the panels.

    Any suggestions?

    Matt

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    7,156

    Default Re: floating floor doorways

    Most of the snap fit floorings say that you can use a knock block to drive the tongue and groove together. I would recommend you do this with two scraps that are the width of the door, not only for practice, but to see if you can indeed knock them together.

    Another method would be to stop the flooring on the hallway side, ending with a T-molding, restart laying the floor from inside the room. It will be a bit of a pain, but you can pop the casing (door trim ) off on the hallway side so that you get the flooring all the way to the wall.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
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    8

    Default Re: floating floor doorways

    Indeed, getting the panels together requires not only a knock block, but fitting them at an angle of about 5degrees, then several good whacks with a hammer and a block.

    However, without that 5degree lift on the new panel joining the existing courses, you can whack all day, they will not join.

    You make a good point about the t-track joints. The thing with that is, in continuing the flooring on the other side, I would then end with another t-track after only a few inches.

    Thanks for the ideas, keep 'em coming!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    7,156

    Default Re: floating floor doorways

    Quote Originally Posted by mattPVD View Post
    Indeed, getting the panels together requires not only a knock block, but fitting them at an angle of about 5degrees, then several good whacks with a hammer and a block.

    However, without that 5degree lift on the new panel joining the existing courses, you can whack all day, they will not join.
    You could shave the tongue so that it still fits snug, but doesn't require the beating to install.

    Quote Originally Posted by mattPVD View Post
    You make a good point about the t-track joints. The thing with that is, in continuing the flooring on the other side, I would then end with another t-track after only a few inches.
    Why is that? The T-molding is just to make the transition through one side of the door, the other side would be cut and put together with the first plank in the room before sliding it under the jamb legs and into the T-mold on the other side.

    Quote Originally Posted by mattPVD View Post
    Thanks for the ideas, keep 'em coming!
    That's all I've got ...
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: floating floor doorways

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    You could shave the tongue so that it still fits snug, but doesn't require the beating to install.
    That's a really good idea, I like that.
    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    Why is that? The T-molding is just to make the transition through one side of the door, the other side would be cut and put together with the first plank in the room before sliding it under the jamb legs and into the T-mold on the other side.
    Sorry, I wasn't clear on this. On the other side of these hallway doors are either rugs, tile, or stairs (down).

    In any case, I'd like the new flooring to extend into the doorway before the transition. In the case of the tile, there is already a marble edge halfway through the doorway, and in the case of the stairs, I'd like the new flooring to extend to the edge of the top step.

    I'll take a picture tonight and post it.

    Thanks so much for all of your comments!
    -Matt

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Providence, RI
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: floating floor doorways

    Here is an example of the situation I'm trying to resolve:


    I'd like to have the T-joint nose up against the marble block in the doorway, but I'd also like the panel to lock into the other panels and fit under the door molding.

    The panels themselves are about 46" long.

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