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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    554

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    Frank:

    Yes, it is possible to test the circulator by attaching a 120v line to it, but first, please describe what equipment you have there.

    From your post you infer that you have 2 zones (upstairs & downstairs) with their own separate t-stat that are controlled by 2 separate circulators & that they have separate "controllers"---some systems also use zone valves to separately control upstairs & downstairs.

    The very first photo you published has a control in the lower left-hand corner that looks like a Honeywell R845 relay that is often used for circulator zones---and these sometimes go bad.

    Please verify the equipment you have there to control the separate zones---& look to see if there is any numbering on the controls--any photos would also help.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    50

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    Well, I think I proved myself wrong. I turned on the heat and touched the circulator, and it felt like it was pumping, so put my maglight on both of them, and put my ear up to the other end, and they both sound like they were working. I opened up the Taco 219 flo-chek valve and waited a while, and I now have heat upstairs. I am not sure what made the heat work.... Bad flo-chek valve? Maybe I didn't give it enough time before for the hot water to make it's way upstairs? Anyways, I think I am going to give it a while and put the valve back the way it was (which is the same way the downstairs valve is) and see if I have no heat again. If it goes back to no heat, does that point to a bad flow-chek valve?
    Thanks.
    Last edited by frankjc; 10-18-2009 at 11:05 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    50

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    Now, I am really not sure what is going on.
    I am not 100% sure that the circulator is in fact running. The downstairs one is considerably hotter than the upstairs side. I have to open the check valve to get any kind of heat upstairs. When I do this, it seems that the return pipe, close to bottom of the furnace gets hot first. Is that the way it should be? Is it at all possible that the upstairs zone will not work if the downstairs is not calling for heat? I am thouroughly confused at this point. I am almost ready to call in a professional.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    florida
    Posts
    598

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    I would call a service tech before something goes wrong and it cost you big bucks to repair
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    50

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    Ok, I THINK i have found the problem. I am getting NO voltage at the circulator in question. On the cover to the Honeywell R845U there is a diagnostic chart. It says if the "call" light is on, and the "relay" light is off, replace relay. Does that mean replace the whole unit, or are the little relays replaceable? I can see that the "points" on one relay are closed, but on the other one they are open.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    50

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    Is there any way to diagnose this problem? The local suppliers only stock the whole thing. I wonder if I can "bypass" it and see if the pump will run. I'd have to buy a new one and not need it.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    554

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    Frank:

    You'll have to take this one step at a time---try turning up the 2nd floor t-stat to see if you get a "call" light on the R845 control (this will signal that the t-stat switch is working)---you can then verify if the "relay" light is working on the relay that will send a signal for the circ to start pumping & the burner to fire.

    Also check the flo-chek valve--from what you describe, you have one that has a little knob on the top that has to be parallel to the piping to be open.

    Photos please!
    Last edited by NashuaTech; 10-19-2009 at 11:22 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    50

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    I did some poking around last night, I traced the wires coming into the R8845U, and out. It seems a white wire goes straight through, and a black wire goes in the box to one connector, then from another one, then out of the box to the circulator. I have voltage when I connect my multimeter between these 2 terminals. I connected my multimeter to the connections on the circulator, then put a jumper wire between the 2 terminals with the black wires, and then it showed voltage at the circulator (the "relay" LED lit up when i did this. I do not know if the pump ran when I did this, the pipes did not seem to get as hot as the other zone. I can definately hear the noise from the pump on the other zone, and I can hear something in the bad zone, but I think it's residual noise from the rest of the system.
    When I turn the thermostat on the call led lights up, but the relay light does not.
    At this point I am not sure if I need the relay control unit, and or a circulator.
    You'd think the home inspector would have caught this......
    I'll take a bunch of pictures after work.
    Thanks.
    Last edited by frankjc; 10-20-2009 at 09:19 AM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    The Great White North
    Posts
    4,045

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    frankjc ..... I agree with NashuaTech ..... you have to take this one step at a time or you get yourself running in circles.

    NashuaTech is very knowledgable with this subject where I'm a novice.
    Hopefully this won't add any confusion with my 2 cents...........

    seems you have 2 zones .... assuming zone 1 is the main level ..... zone 2 is the upper level.

    Zone 1 seems to work fine and the one in question is zone 2.

    Since zone 1 is working fine ......... is it possible to disconnect the wires from the controller for zone 1 and attach the wires for zone 2 in it's place ?

    Then turn up the thermostat on the main level .... the circulator pump for zone 2 should start and send warm water to the second floor.

    If it does then you have determined the problem is likely associated to the R845 or the wiring.

    If it doesn't then you have determined that the R845 isn't the issue.


    Just a thought.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    50

    Default Re: forced hot water heat question

    That's a good idea, I will give that a try.

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