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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    1

    Default Well pressure switches

    For 2 years my pressure switch operated with no problems, now I can't seem to resolve my problems. My well pressure switch stopped turning on so I replaced it. Still didn't work correctly, so after deciding the gauge was stuck, I replaced the gauge also. Now it works for a few days then stops, requiring a little "tap" to get it running again. What is the correct way to replace a well pressure switch? Perhaps my own ignorance is the problem. It is a 30/50 switch, a 100 psi gauge, an air bladder tank. I didn't drain the tank when replacing the switch or gauge.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fayette County, Ohio
    Posts
    5,622

    Default Re: Well pressure switches

    If you didn't drain the system to change the switch or gauge you must be very fast, the mounting tube is blocked, or you have a shut-off or check valve between them and the bladder tank. That nay be one source of the problem, although you loose pressure from the tank the shut off or check valve may be holding the pressure in the line where the switch and gauge are located.

    Another possibility is the build up of gunk (a highly technical term) in the tube where the switch is mounted.
    Jack
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Pacific Northwet
    Posts
    1,418

    Default Re: Well pressure switches

    Did you turn the adjuster screw or nut inside the pressure switch? If so, then you may have affected the settings.

    There should not be a check valve between the tank and the pressure switch. Also, the switch should be "reasonably close" to the tank, i.e., within 10 feet of piping. (If it's an above ground pump and the switch is on the pump, the pump should be close to the tank.)

    If you drain all the water out of the tank, the air pressure in the bladder should be either equal to the "cut in" or "low" pressure setting of the switch, or up to two PSI below. The air pressure should never be greater than the cut in pressure. After verifying the air pressure, leave the tank unfilled for an hour and check it again. If the pressure has fallen, the bladder has failed and you need to replace the tank. If possible, shake the "empty" tank -- if water is sloshing around, that's another sign of a failed bladder.

    If you push in on the "tire valve" (also known as a snifter valve) and get water instead of air, this also means that the bladder has failed.

    If you've got a lot of sediment or debris in your water, this can get into the diaphragm chamber on the switch and gum up the works. Installing a longer, vertical pipe going UP to the switch may help, as the debris most likely won't make it up there.
    The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: Well pressure switches

    Hi. I found this forum with a Google search. I'm at my parents house in Michigan and they have an artesian well. The property is on a downhill grade to a lake. The well is on the high ground, and there is a large diameter corrugated tube that takes overflow water to a pond and french drain near the lake. My Dad has been concerned because water was flowing out near the well itself. We uncapped the well, and when the pump clicks on, water comes out the power conduit (and then out the screened vent hole). Is it possible that the pressure switch is malfunctioning and allowing the pump to pump water all the way the house and back to the well through the power supply? Is there any good reason for water to come out the power conduit? Thanks!

    Tom

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