Re: Well pressure switches
Did you turn the adjuster screw or nut inside the pressure switch? If so, then you may have affected the settings.
There should not be a check valve between the tank and the pressure switch. Also, the switch should be "reasonably close" to the tank, i.e., within 10 feet of piping. (If it's an above ground pump and the switch is on the pump, the pump should be close to the tank.)
If you drain all the water out of the tank, the air pressure in the bladder should be either equal to the "cut in" or "low" pressure setting of the switch, or up to two PSI below. The air pressure should never be greater than the cut in pressure. After verifying the air pressure, leave the tank unfilled for an hour and check it again. If the pressure has fallen, the bladder has failed and you need to replace the tank. If possible, shake the "empty" tank -- if water is sloshing around, that's another sign of a failed bladder.
If you push in on the "tire valve" (also known as a snifter valve) and get water instead of air, this also means that the bladder has failed.
If you've got a lot of sediment or debris in your water, this can get into the diaphragm chamber on the switch and gum up the works. Installing a longer, vertical pipe going UP to the switch may help, as the debris most likely won't make it up there.
The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.