+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default John Hardie cement fiber siding

    Does anyone have experience with the above product? Are special skills needed to install? Is it durable and long lasting? What about insulation? Please tell me everything you know about this product. Thank you.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    19

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    Quote Originally Posted by reenies2000 View Post
    Does anyone have experience with the above product? Are special skills needed to install? Is it durable and long lasting? What about insulation? Please tell me everything you know about this product. Thank you.
    I just installed a facade of JH fibercement siding over an exisitng exterior stucco wall as part of our patio (covered and open) remodel. I would DEFINITELY agree with jkirk that it is labor and tool/blade intensive.

    We found the hardiplank circular saw blades cost between $20-50 each. Buy one (at least). It does make less dust and lasts longer than other blades. We also found that a hand-jigsaw is very helpful in cutting around any wall extrustions (electrical boxes, watering spigots, etc.).

    I read (diligently) all their PDFs on their website. I then asked them questions via their website "contact us." No special skills are needed, but a lot of forethought was helpful.

    The only 2 things I did not get from these 2 sources was how to nail the planks. And, the need for a "story pole." Since they are cement, I found that we needed to pre-drill each nail with a (smaller) hole for the nail. And, hand nailing worked better than a nail gun for me as a DIYer. A story pole helps you nail up straight, properly spaced courses of planks adjusted for the windows and extrusions. A google search on this term will help you figure out how to make yours.

    The one practice which was suggested as "optional," but which we did do, was prime with Zinnser the backs of each board and every cut edge. As jkirk also said, caulking is required for edges at the end of a run, but that is discussed in JH's PDFs.

    The wall has lasted its first California Winter well!
    Last edited by 1655graff; 06-04-2009 at 02:04 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    Greetings,
    I'm replacing approx. 5" X 24" strips of cement fiber siding that was broken when the front porch decking was temp. removed. This piece is under the door sill and above the porch deck. What hand tool can I use to cut the cement fiber piece? I tried a hack saw with limited success for the first three inches of the cut. Is this a material that can be scored then snapped at the score?
    Thank you.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,381

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    This was used on the dormers of my daughters new house and it is 7 years old now. No issues. I did not install it myself so I can't comment on that, but I can comment on the need for caulking at the ends of each run. That is necessary where the end of he run terminates against any trim, but for splices in the middle of a run, there is a little cover that goes over the gap. Caulk was not used at those points.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    Well I have used them on my old home. And they are good. You spend your hard earned money on them.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    Hey!Try going to an store that sell those products that you were looking for.And try asking them about your situation that way,you can get the most and better for your home..

    Cheers!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    nova scotia, canada
    Posts
    1,522

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    harti can be scored and snapped with a knife but you have to make multiple passes and make sure you have extra blades as it will dull the blade in no time.. as for replacing it.. remove all the damaged peiecs.. it should be blind nailed as much as possible but when your back up to where the last peice is tucked up under the one above it youll have to hand nail. just be sure to pre drill
    fire up the saw and make some dust

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    40

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    My little house, built in 1973 by the couple who lived there (I mean they actually built it themselves), has this siding. I am currently recaulking (gaps were not covered alas in runs) after painting the edges with preservative. The siding is in very good condition. It has suffered through 40 eastern Oregon cold winters and hot summers very well. It is fire retardant. However if not well protected by preservative and paint, it will take on moisture, swell, and be a bit of a mess. Newer versions are probably much better in this regard, and I believe come in colours. You will certainly not be able to use the scraps to build window boxes or raised garden beds! best, M.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,387

    Default Re: John Hardie cement fiber siding

    Howdy the product lasts a long time and holds paint well an better if you install it on a rain screen wall. The dust is very bad for you so if cutting with a saw wear a very good dust respirator. The best advice I can offer is to use the cement siding installation clips made in portland Oregon. These little clips make the job so much easier. the biggest demand is to install the first piece of siding absolutely level and the clips keep each additional piece level- otherwise it is extremely easy to get un level and siding shows this loudly- it screams it - I know because we got off 1/16" an by top of 8' that made an 1" off looked amature- then I found out about the clips. Hardies best practices pages on their wed page is better then the installation pages for beginners.

    Also the clip company makes hangers so you do not have to abut the pieces on a stud. Pre drilling the corners before nailing reduced our breakage by 99% when hand nailing. Gun nailing is much faster. Best of installs and happy trails.
    Last edited by Timothy Miller; 03-28-2013 at 10:20 PM. Reason: typo
    Any an all of my comments are just my opinion and not to be confused with facts.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •