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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    1

    Default Removing a section of Baseboard Permanently

    I have a 1200 sq.ft. 1950's ranch. From what I understand that baseboard heat is only necessary on exterior walls. We have forced hot water on 1 zone throughout all the rooms and then a section in the hallway. Obviously insulation was not what is now, the house has blown in insulation on all exterior walls. My question, I want to move the entrance to the living room which is off the central hallway, where the baseboard is located. In order to accomplish this I would either need to shorten the lenght of the cast iron baseboard or remove all together. Just looking to get some feedback if this would drastically effect heating in the house or was this added due to the lack of insulation in the 1950's. Also insulation in the attic was upgraded from original to r38. Any feedback would be appreciated.

    Edit: Im in MA. The baseboard is approx.8 ft.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    86

    Default Re: Removing a section of Baseboard Permanently

    fdb16,

    It's hard to predict beforehand what the exact effects would be if you removed the 8' of cast iron BB from the hallway---there would obviously be a certain amount of heat loss in the hallway, as well as some heat loss in the general area of the removed BB; there are several other issues involved in the attempted removal of the BB; your statement is not quite accurate that "baseboard is required only on the exterior walls"---this is generally true, but BB heat emitters in ANY location will add to the comfort of nearby rooms on a particular floor--how much heat a certain floor, or area of a floor needs in cold weather is always COMPUTED using heat loss calculations; however, if you remove the 8' BB & that area of the house feels colder during the winter, you can always add the same 8' BB elsewhere in a nearby location to make up for the heat lost (providing you can access the supply piping); another option would be to add a FLOOR VECTOR (see Beacon-Morris site below) that would compensate for most of the heat lost by removing the cast iron BB; at the Beacon Morris site, click onto "view residential products", then "other residential products" until you get to the floor vectors; vectors come in lengths from 3' X 4" to 5' X 4"; you don't have to buy from BM; check other heating supply sites such as Pex Supply, as well as local heating supply parts stores for the best price; the least expensive way of course, would be to re-use the 8' section of CI BB you remove, just put it in another location, providing you can access the supply/return piping; you may not have to even do that if you find after its removal that the heat loss in that part of the house is negligible.

    1) how are you going to RECONNECT the remaining piping after you remove the 8' of BB???---since your new entrance to the LR is going to be where the BB is now situated, you would perhaps have to cut at least a 4" wide X 5' long channel along the wood floor if you want to connect a new floor vector, or 2 small holes at the supply/return points to reconnect the piping & cut as little as possible of the existing floor so the heating pipes can be reconnected.

    2) you would have to shut down the boiler & temporarily shut off the fresh water supply feed to the boiler & then drain several gallons of water from the system from the faucet at the base of the boiler, so you could work on the hallway piping & BB removal--wait for a warm spell when you won't need the heat for at least a day---once you have re-piped in the area of the removed BB & have perhaps added an air vent, & have checked for leaks, you would have to refill the system & remove any air that has become entrapped in the piping system.


    http://www.beacon-morris.com
    http://www.pexsupply.com/pex/control...floor%20vector
    Last edited by dodsworth; 03-18-2014 at 11:04 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Minneapolis
    Posts
    9

    Default Re: Removing a section of Baseboard Permanently

    A professional should perform a Manual 'J' heat load for each room. The outcome will be more than predictable if the system is measured and re-designed for the new load.

    A local professional should perform the pipe-fitting to make sure the "design" changes are compatible with the physical piping.

    Most older cast iron radiation and boilers were over-sized when new, so you have a good idea.
    Badger Radiant Designs

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