+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 12 of 12
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    2,203

    Default Re: details for small bathroom lighting and outlets

    Quote Originally Posted by Fencepost View Post

    Connect a thin-gauge wire across a 9V battery and it will get hot enough to start a fire.
    Please don't try this with a Lithium battery or the fire may be the battery itself and darn near impossible to extinguish before most of the lithium is burned up. FYI, lithium fires are dealt with through large quantities of water to cool them till either the fuel is expended or the amount of cooling from the water brings the lithium and it's container down to below it's flash point. Dropping a 9V lithium battery which is fully ignited into a bucket of water will not extinguish it immediately as you'd think it would Shorting, reverse charging, or too rapid a rate of charging or discharging are the main causes of Lithium battery fires, with too high of a discharge rate causing the battery to overheat and self-ignite running close behind. Lithium batteries can be seriously dangerous when damaged or abused!

    Phil

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Columbiana, Alabama
    Posts
    738

    Default Re: details for small bathroom lighting and outlets

    Quote Originally Posted by waltdeckhouse View Post
    Not sure if I was clear about this....but my thought was to use a power supply with circuit protection to prevent a chance of shocking someone. something like this

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...upply/70/3556/

    I am just not sure how to penetrate the wall board if I run the LV cables in the wall and mount the LED strip on the ceiling or off the wall.

    Any thoughts on that?
    Walt, you have to be really careful about the listing type and if it is really Class 2 or 3.

    UL or CSA are generally OK. But, UL with a backwards "RU" or "Classified" is only listed as a complete system.

    CE is the listing for European equipment and is generally not accepted in the UL, they rely on the manufacturers promise, not testing by an agency.

    Some equipment in your link may not be safe. If unsure go to UL.com, they're real helpfull.

    So, you need UL class 2 or 3 components to be able to run lamp cord or LV cable in a wall.
    The 120V wiring needs to be typical house wiring, like NM-B (Romex) and the connection to the driver and the driver needs to be visible and accessable.

    Usually, dimmers can only be used on the LV wiring. Check the manufacturers specs.
    Good Luck from Columbiana, Alabama
    Maurice Turgeon, Hidden Content

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •