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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
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    Default Old lock set hole

    I have a old doors I wish to use but the locksets are only 2" from the edge and can't be reused. How can I redrill over the existing hole to handle the newer locksets.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fayette County, Ohio
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    5,620

    Default Re: Old lock set hole

    You need to either install a plug the same size as the existing hole or inlayed patches on both sides.
    You can get router inlay kits from any wood working store. Here is a link to a video demo of router inlay www.woodworking******.com/2007/03/05/podcast-14-router-inlays/
    Inthe link above replace the ****** with o n l i n e with out the spaces

    Jack
    Last edited by JLMCDANIEL; 09-11-2013 at 11:03 AM.
    Be sure you live your life, because you are a long time dead.-Scottish Proverb

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Pacific Northwet
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    Default Re: Old lock set hole

    You can also use a repair/reinforcement shield.

    http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ine+reinforcer



    I didn't say it would look pretty.
    The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    6,613

    Default Re: Old lock set hole

    You say the existing locksets are 2" from the edge, but this is irrelevant, what is the center line of the existing hole? The reason that this is important is that old locks tend to have a smaller diameter hole, so adjusting a small hole for a new lockset may be possible without any modifications to the door.

    Current locksets use a 1-3/8" set back for interiors and 1-3/4" set back for exterior doors. Set back is the distance from the edge of the door to the center line of the lockset.

    To redrill a door, you make yourself a jig by making a "horseshoe" of 1x6 over both sides of the door and the edge. You clamp this horseshoe over the existing hole, mark your setback from the edge of the door. Drill the new hole with the recommended sized hole saw, which is generally 2" (resulting in a 2-1/4" hole ), verify the requirements of the new lock/handset before you drill.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Pacific Northwet
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    Default Re: Old lock set hole

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Spruce View Post
    Current locksets use a 1-3/8" set back for interiors and 1-3/4" set back for exterior doors. Set back is the distance from the edge of the door to the center line of the lockset.
    Spruce, I think you mean 2+3/8" and 2+3/4", respectively. The thickness of the doors is typically 1+3/8" and 1+3/4". I believe the hole for the lockset is 2+1/8" diameter.

    That is, the center of the hole is positioned according to these measurements. If you have at least 1+5/16" between the edge of the door and the existing hole, you can rebore 2+1/8" hole at a 2+3/8" backset without any problems.

    Spruce's horseshoe trick is to make something out of wood similar to the metal bracket I posted earlier, and use this as a guide for the hole saw to enlarge/reposition the hole. (It's not necessary to make the hole in the horseshoe before attaching to the door, but doing so will make it easier to align it to the door.) You may also need to enlarge the bolt hole; old style are around 3/4 or 7/8"; the newer ones require a 15/16" hole. (I think. You'll want to double-check the bolt hole measurement.)
    Last edited by Fencepost; 09-12-2013 at 04:56 PM.
    The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    6,613

    Default Re: Old lock set hole

    Quote Originally Posted by Fencepost View Post
    Spruce, I think you mean 2+3/8" and 2+3/4", respectively. The thickness of the doors is typically 1+3/8" and 1+3/4". I believe the hole for the lockset is 2+1/8" diameter.
    What, is accuracy really necessary?

    Yes, you are correct, I did, indeed, mean 2-3/8" and 2-3/4" as the setback. I did say to verify the measurement requirements of the new lock sets, which also includes the diameter of the hole.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,321

    Default Re: Old lock set hole

    Of all the residential doors I've seen in the last 10+ years, interior and exterior both, have had a 2 3/8" backset with just one exception on a custom exterior mahogany door (whose lockset alone cost more than I make in 2 weeks- I was a nervous nellie drilling all the holes that one took!) 2 3/4" backset is a commercial standard, again I have seen almost no exceptions there. The lockset bore is always 2 1/8" these days, though I've seen an older 1 3/4" standard and many variations on really old doors. Plunger bores now run 1" or 7/8" for the most part, I've never seen a 15/16". For those I'm going by the instructions though I have found that 15/16" is a tighter (and thus better) fit for some nominal 1" plungers. With almost all the hardware now being made overseas you can bet the shop drawings are metric and this may explain the disparity on the 1" plunger drill recommendations. That would also explain why some handles and deadbolt rings are such a tight fit- something I never saw as much of when these were made mostly in the US.

    For redrilling a new borehole I just grab my lockset drilling jig and go carefully with the holesaw which is not always engaged all round. I have an old holesaw I use for these which has had the outside edges ground dull but with the teeth otherwise sharp so it doesn't eat the jig up. Before I had the jig, I'd cut a block of 2X lumber to fit the hole tightly, drive it flush, then center the holesaw bit on that with a manual layout. It gets bored out as you go, don't try to knock it out or you may chip the veneer! One big gripe I have is when I'm supplied a pre-bored door to replace an old one is when I discover on hanging it that the old strikes are miles from the pre-bored holes because someone didn't adhere to the standards when they drilled the door originally. This is always where your nice and sharp drill bit or chisel finds hidden nails so you lose your profit in the time it takes to resharpen or replace it! I'm at the point where I'd rather bore a slab myself so I can align the bores to the existing strike locations instead of the other way round. Much easier on my drills and chisels!

    If an old door will have a hole left when boring for a new lockset, you can either try to fill it with matching wood and finish or take a different approach and make a rectangular 'accent' plate from a cut-down sheetmetal door kickplate. Match the metal finish to the lockset finish, then you've got something to center the drills on. Just keep it back from the edge if it's going to interfere with the frame stop molding. If you want to, you can get creative with the shape and thus avoid the 'reinforcer' look Fencepost showed.

    Phil
    Last edited by Mastercarpentry; 09-12-2013 at 11:12 PM.

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