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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Kearney, NE
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    Default Moving a house, need extra floor joist

    Don't know if this is the right place to post, but I'll start here...So I'm planning on moving a 100+ year old house. The floor joists are all in real good condition but are only full dimension 2x6's. The center of the house rests on a 6x6 beam running down the center. I plan on setting this down on a full basement but I want to have spans of at least 14 ft (house is 50x28). The 2x6's won't allow for this so it's looking like I will have to sister each joist with 2x10's. Not a problem. What I'm trying to figure out is when in the process of moving the house I should do it. You can't add 2x10's in after the house is sitting on the beams as these will be resting on the current 2x6 joists. Likewise you can't really do it after it is sitting on the new basement because notching the 2x10s to sit on the basement wall would be the same as sistering with a 2x6 (thanks for that info Tom Silva, ATOH).

    The current foundation is brick crawlspace. I could notch out the brick, remove the rim joist, and slide the 2x10s in and sister them to the 2x6's. Then add a new rim joist. But I run into the problem of the having to notch the 6x6 beam that the house rests on. Another option perhaps would be to have the 8 inch basement walls to have a rim 4 inch wide by 4 in deep rim around the perimeter. The current 2x6's would sit on the top outside 4 inches of the basement wall rim and the 2x10's would be sistered and sit on the lower inside 4 inches of the basement wall. The 2x10's could either be notched yet would still be supported on the walls at the notched ends, or you could butt the 2x10 to the rim of the basement wall.

    Anyways, I need some insight from you guys. I've asked an engineer buddy of mine but haven't back yet.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    SoCal
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    6,694

    Default Re: Moving a house, need extra floor joist

    You say that all the existing joists and the beam are in good condition and there's no sagging, so the question is: why do you want to sister them with 2x10 joists rather than same kind full dimension 2x6s?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kearney, NE
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: Moving a house, need extra floor joist

    I want a span of at least 14ft. The full dimension 2x6 will only span around 8ft. There is a bit of sag here and there but the there is no rot or termite damage. I want it structurally sound and no opportunity for any more sag for the next 100+ years. Figured since I was moving it, better make sure it's up to code so insurance company will insure the house.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Kearney, NE
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    8

    Default Re: Moving a house, need extra floor joist

    Well I had an engineer buddy out to take a look at the floor joists. Turns out the joist framing is not true 2x6 as previously thought, it was the same dimensions as today's framing lumber. Anyone ever seen this on a 100+ year old house? Anyways with how the house was build it is looking like I will need to run 200+ feet of steel I-Beams under the house, in two directions. That's a $10,000 unexpected discovery... Ughh

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    SoCal
    Posts
    6,694

    Default Re: Moving a house, need extra floor joist

    That hurts, but get a second opinion.
    You ask 2 engineers a question, and you get 3 answers.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    2,194

    Default Re: Moving a house, need extra floor joist

    Quote Originally Posted by dj1 View Post
    That hurts, but get a second opinion.
    You ask 2 engineers a question, and you get 3 answers.
    And all of them will claim that their answer is the correct one even when they're different!

    Another option if it fits in with your new basement floorplan would be a CMU (block) center wall at the middle, eliminating one beam. Outer foundation walls could be widened to carry the ends of the joists leaving you then needing only 2 steel beams instead of 5. Of course the CMU wall could have openings as long as they are engineered to hold the load (steel or block lintels will be needed). Again based on the floorplan, LVL's may be able to replace the steel beams (though these may need columns) and would need center support at the 25' mid-point where they break. I'd also want concrete-filled 'trough block' with rebar on top if the CMU sections were mine- wouldn't hurt to do the whole foundation that way. If my thinking is right here, you're going to have support every 7' which should make for one heck of a strong floor even with minimal-sized joists (you could probably park a car in the house!). Keep the channels of communication open with the house-movers, they will need your plan to be workable for them and they might even know a good contractor who has experience dealing with issues like this.

    Phil
    Last edited by Mastercarpentry; 08-22-2013 at 09:51 PM.

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