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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: Deteriorating cement board clapboards.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sombreuil_mongrel View Post
    Hardi recommends not placing their products in the splash zone, but having 2" vertical space above any horizontal surface. You run flashing down to the steps instead of cement board.
    Casey

    Can you point me to some pictures or a video of this process. I've never installed flashing on stairs before. I am picturing flashing on the granite steps, can't see how that would look nice.
    I have another image of the whole area.


    photo by diggerd, on Flickr
    Last edited by digger; 08-01-2013 at 01:17 PM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,438

    Default Re: Deteriorating cement board clapboards.

    If you want to replace the damaged siding planks yourself, read about it on line and watch demonstrations on youtube.

    It looks like you have a mold issue too, which you can treat with bleach. It will come back and you will have to stay on top of it.

    Take care of these two problems, and you will have a very good looking entrance.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    17

    Default Re: Deteriorating cement board clapboards.

    I was able to find a board with product code on the back. It definitely is Hardie Plank lap siding. All the sizes and color match. ON their site it says to maintain a 2"minimum clearance between the product and paths steps and driveways.
    Still not sure how to flash this. I've been looking on line for some time trying to find info and or a video on this subject. Most of the flashing info concerns roofing. If someone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it.
    Thanks


    Screen Shot 2013-08-01 at 8.13.58 PM by diggerd, on Flickr

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    1,003

    Default Re: Deteriorating cement board clapboards.

    For strength, we bend a bottom flange at the bottom to sit on the horizontal surface; it keeps it rigid. 1" is more than enough for the flange. You start at the bottom, as you would with a roof, which is so the next piece sheds water onto that below. Your stair riser would get a piece, then the next tread, etc. The stoop would be done with a continuous piece to the corner, which should return on the adjacent 90* wall by 2" so the piece on the door wall overlaps it. This is going to also help against water getting between the concrete and the walls. We did a house with Hardi shingle, and had the necessary stock of flashing made up in copper by our metal roofing guy.
    Casey
    Remove not the ancient landmark, which your fathers have set.

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