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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Default Re: Wainscot molding transition

    Quote Originally Posted by SophieC View Post
    I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "instead of returning 90* back to the wall, you will use an angled return so that it meets up with the door trim as requested.".
    This image shows window stool returned at 90*. The end of each piece is cut at 45* and when mated and installed, this is what you get.
    http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniques/StoolApron/Stool-Apron-stool.jpg

    Say you want the apron to be flush with the tip of the nosing, but don't want the profile thickness of the trim, you would do the same as you did above, but instead of a 90* corner you would make a 45* corner and the tip of the apron molding would have a mating angle cut to lay flat against the wall.

    Quote Originally Posted by SophieC View Post
    I'm also not sure I understand what you mentioned about installing a backboard on my saw for support.
    I am assuming that you are using a power miter saw, or chopsaw as they are more commonly known. You will notice that the back fence has a large gap for the saw to swing through for it's various angles of cut. This large gap makes for a frustrating and dangerous situation when cutting small scabs of trim. By installing a flat board against the fence, you will have a solid surface to fully support the scab being cut. Simply set the saw angle, make your cut through the backboard, then line up your trim to be cut. Here's a little tip, if you have multiple scabs to cut, make ALL your right hand cuts first, reset your backboard, then make all your left hand cuts. You'll understand what I mean when you get into this, as when you change the saw angle you will cut a larger hole into your backboard, defeating it's purpose.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
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    143

    Default Re: Wainscot molding transition

    The link didn't work for me, so I'm not sure what the picture looks like, but I do comprehend the explanation. However, with that being said, I'm still not understanding the explanation of the 45 deg. corner and how it would look. Sorry about that. I am a very visual person and sometimes I just don't get an explanation. I tried looking up what you described on youtube, but had no luck.

    Thanks for the explanation about the support for the saw.....that I understand.
    peace,
    Sophie

  3. #13
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    Aug 2007
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    6,964

    Default Re: Wainscot molding transition

    This site seriously SUCKS after the software update . . .

    Here's the link again, maybe this one will work, if not, all it is is an image of a 90* return.
    http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniq...pron-stool.jpg

    What I'm saying is that you are not restricted to a 90* return, you can go at any angle that suits your needs. Returning at a 45* angle will show more of the scab piece. Look at it this way, pour a pile of flour on the counter, then level off the top so it is flat. Where the top and side of the pile meets is roughly 45*. Now, imagine that the countertop is the wall the flat top of the pile of flour is the face of the apron, and the sloped side will be the return. Does that help?
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
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    143

    Default Re: Wainscot molding transition

    Your link worked this time.

    I think that I understand what it would look like, but not completely certain. I'd have to see a photo of it to decide if it is something I wanted.
    peace,
    Sophie

  5. #15
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    Aug 2007
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    Default Re: Wainscot molding transition

    The only reason to change the angle of the return is if you want the apron to meet the end of the shelf. If you butt it into the door/window trim, then all I would recommend doing is chamfering the end of the apron as Jack suggested to be the same thickness as the door/window trim, if thickness is an issue. If the door/window trim is thicker, then just butt the apron into it.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Louisiana (Cajun Country USA)
    Posts
    143

    Default Re: Wainscot molding transition

    SPRUCE!!!!!! I think I've got it! And if I do, I feel like an idiot!

    I was lying in bed last night trying to fall asleep and this topic was on my mind. Suddenly, I had a euraka moment. In the photo you provided a link to, it shows a 90 deg. return on the bullnose stool. It has 2 pieces cut at 45 deg. that when mated, make the 90 deg. All this time, I was thinking with the 45 deg. return you were suggesting, that I was still going to have 2 pieces. But, I think what you mean is that the apron below my shelf, instead of having a square cut end as shown in your photo link, will have a taper back towards the wall at 45 deg. Am I understanding you now?!
    peace,
    Sophie

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Default Re: Wainscot molding transition

    I think you're close.

    With a 45* return, you're still going to have two pieces, the main piece under the length of the shelf, then the scab at the end that returns to the wall. The difference is that instead of cutting two 45* miters to make a 90* return, you would do two 22.5* miters and the scab would slope back to the wall. Think of it this way, think of it as a ramp rather than a step.

    As I said earlier, this is only necessary if you want the apron to extend to the end of the shelf without butting into door/window trim. If you're going to but into door/window trim, then you will simple back bevel the face of your apron to match the thickness of the door/window trim if they are of a thinner material.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

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