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  1. #1
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    May 2013
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    Default How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    I have a typical old Hawaiian home built with single wall (1 x 6) construction.
    It has Masoninte siding that has started to deteriorate and needs repair/replacing. I pulled some of the old siding off, and found that it had been installed using staples.
    What is the best way to go about repairing/replacing the siding? I wanted to use Hardiboard, but their instructions state to use either a 2 siding nail or 1-1/4 roofing nail. As a test I took a small piece of Hardiboard and nailed it to the side of the house, and due to the single wall construction, the tip of the nail comes through to the inside of the house.
    Suggestions?

  2. #2
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    Default Re: How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    Don't you have studs in the wall? Attach the siding to the studs not sheathing.
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

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  3. #3
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    Nov 2012
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    central pa
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    Default Re: How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    i would say use whatever length doesnt come through make it as long as possible but if it is poking through the extra lenght isnt doing anything anyway

  4. #4
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    Default Re: How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    Don't you have studs in the wall? Attach the siding to the studs not sheathing.
    In Hawaii, single-wall construction = no studs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Tennessee
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    Default Re: How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    Are the 1x6s mounted vertically? Are you using 4x8 panels or lap siding?

    If you are using 4x8 panels, you could mount 1x2s horizontally every 16" or so using 1 1/4" galvanized nails, then screw the panels in place using a polymer coated, star drive, exterior screw with a #17 self drilling point like in the link below.

    http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...ductId=3295222

    If you are using the 1x2 furring, this screw is available in 1 3/4" long which would be better for your application.

    If you are using lap siding, use a similar screw, but you could mount the furring strips vertically instead. If mounted horizontally, you would have to have one every 6", but if mounted vertically, there is the possibility that the 1x6s will want to "wave" a little.

    You could use plywood under the lap siding. you would only need a 3/8" lower grade plywood. This could make the structure much stronger if you use a construction adhesive between the 1x6s and the plywood, it could be held with 1" staples while the adhesive cures. Then put on the lap siding with either the polymer coated screws or galvanized siding nails of an appropriate length.

    This probably goes without saying, but while the siding is off, be sure to treat all the wood with a sodium borate solution for those Formosan Termites you have there.

    If you wanted to, you could probably substitute a 1/2 foam insulation board for the plywood.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    4

    Default Re: How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    Thanks keith3267. Some great ideas. The house is covered in lap siding, so I’m trying to stay with that. I had thought about covering the house with plywood, as you suggested, (although I hadn’t thought about using an adhesive) and then installing the siding over that, but figured It’d be too difficult getting on a ladder and mounting the large sheets of plywood up at the second story level. Hadn’t even thought about 1/2” foam insulation board. That may be easier to handle than large sheets of plywood. But wouldn’t the foam insulation board absorb and retain moisture, with the high humidity here?
    I especially like the vertical furring strips idea. Spaced at about 16” I’m assuming? Seams like that would be way easier than putting up full sheets of 4x8 plywood. But why 1x2? Couldn’t I use 3/8” thick (like the plywood) x 2”?
    This probably goes without saying, but while the siding is off, be sure to treat all the wood with a sodium borate solution for those Formosan Termites you have there.
    No, it doesn’t go without saying, as it never even occurred to me to do that! Luckily there are not any subterranean termites in our area, but we do get swarms of flying termites every summer. We tent the house about every 5-6 years as suggested by our local exterminator.
    Oh, and the 1x6's are vertical. (and just to check the exact thickness, I drove a 1-1/2" nail through the wall, marked the nail on the inside of the house, pulled it out and it actually measured 13/16" thick.)
    Last edited by srowndedbyh2o; 05-07-2013 at 02:38 AM. Reason: Additional comment.

  7. #7
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    Tennessee
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    Default Re: How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    You could cut 3/8" plywood into 2" strips if you want, but that is a lot of work. 1x2 furring strips are cheap and readily available, you don't need appearance grade.

    I was originally going to suggest they you use a 1" exterior grade screw, but it turns out that I couldn't find any. 1.25" is the shortest I could find so you need something to act as a filler between the lap siding and the 1x6s. Since the 1x6s are vertical, I would not use the furring strips mounted vertically unless the 1x6s are tongue and groove.

    I think you will find that every vertical board is attached to the lap boards at least every few rows. The reason for this is to hold the vertical framing in line and keep them from bowing in and out. You could use a larger furring strip, like a 1x4 or 1x6 mounted horizontally on 16" or 24" centers and attached to each vertical board, either mechanically or with a construction adhesive to keep the wall straight, then little short 1x2s mounted vertically 16" OC between the horizontal furring strips, but that is a lot of work too. a piece of plywood is a lot easier.

    I only mentioned the 1x2 vertically 16" OC if the 1x6s were mounted horizontally, but I really could not envision how a wall would stand without any framing if the 1x6s were horizontal.


    For second floor work, you will need a scaffold. You should be able to rent one of these. You can get plywood as thin as 1/4" but that is usually a little more expensive than the 3/8" plywood. 3/8" plywood should be too heavy unless you are using PT plywood, which you don't need.

    You should mount the plywood horizontally for the strongest structure. The vertical seams should be off set like a brick wall would be. For the second floor work, you could cut the plywood into 2x8 pieces and again, offset the vertical seams. That would make the plywood a lot easier to handle, half the weight.

    Here is one more option if the interior wall is not a finished wall. You could add some paneling to the interior wall to make it thicker. Maybe put the 3/8" cheap plywood first as an underlayment, the some finished 1/8" thick paneling. Then the siding can be attached directly to the 1x6s with the 1 1/4" screws and not worry about the tips coming through. Instead of paneling, you could also just plaster over it, in fact you could even go as far as to just use the 1 1/4" screws and let them protrude into the interior, then cover it with sheet rock and finish the walls that way.
    Last edited by keith3267; 05-07-2013 at 05:14 PM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    4

    Default Re: How to install siding on old Hawaiian single wall construction?

    keith3267. After reading over your reply several times, I think I'm understanding why the plywood would probably be the best way to go. The 1x6's are tongue and groove, with a 1x4 "band" going horizontally about midway around the inside of the house. If I put vertical furring on the vertical 1x6's, then all the weight of the lap siding would be supported by relatively few of those 1x6's. (?).
    I did come across a home similar to mine that had Hardiboard lap siding installed, and his solution was to put up drywall throughout his homes interior. The inside walls of our house are unfinished, which is the way these old Hawaiian homes were built. I like the look, and would prefer to keep the inside "original", so agin, the plywood on the outside seems to be the way to go.
    As an aside, I originally thought I would try and replace just the lap board that had deteriorated, which is a little less than 1/2 of the backside wall of the house. The rest of the siding is holding up really well, and I hate thinking of tearing off all that siding that is still in good shape. The lapboard that is on the house is 9-1/2" and 3/8" thick with an 8-1/4" reveal, with a smooth finish. Nothing like that is available around here, so I went and got some 4x8 pressure treated plywood that is somewhat finished on one side, and using a circular saw I ripped 9-1/4" planks. I then put 3 coats of primer on both sides, and a 4th coat around the edges, and two finish coats of paint over that on the face of the planks. It looks remarkably like the siding on the house (although I'd have to face nail the boards to prevent the nails from coming through on the inside of the house). But with that method, I'm limited to max length of 8' planks, which means a whole lot of butt joints, and I don't even know if it's really acceptable to use the pressure treated plywood as siding.

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