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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
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    1,769

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    Yep, those are the ones I used, but i paid more than that for them, about $16 for a dozen. I used the pattern in your second link but I spaced them a little closer. I also used a pair of 16d nails on 16" centers to keep the ledger board tight to the rim joist, just in case it wanted to twist on me.

    The nails keep it flat, the headloc bolts keep the ledger from pulling away from the wall. BTW, the headloc fastener was developed because of decks that pulled away from the structure they were attached to, sometimes with fatal results. Nails alone will not keep the ledger attached and sometimes lag bolts don't work as well as people think, especially zinc coated lag bolts.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    104

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    This series -- http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...ld-a-deck.aspx -- covers my situation for ledger, footings, and possibly other.

    I like the detail about sitting the ledger 3/8" below the framing shown at 2:20 on the layout video. And also about checking the mud-sill and rim joist of the house for ledger fastening.
    Last edited by coloradotrout; 05-06-2013 at 02:22 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,769

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    Is there more than one video, I only see the one that is 1:18 long. That bolt system that ties a floor joist to a deck joist shown in the first video is only required for decks that are more than 4" above the ground, if then in some areas.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    104

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    Quote Originally Posted by keith3267 View Post
    Is there more than one video, I only see the one that is 1:18 long.
    Yes -- scroll down just below and to the left of the Intro video. There are currently these:

    layout and framing -- http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...ck-layout.aspx
    footings and piers -- http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...ngs-piers.aspx
    install ledger -- http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...ll-ledger.aspx


    I am not going to use those thru-bolts. My porch is probably close to 2' above grade in places, but I feel good about the ledgerlok bolts doing the job. The ones I have torn off were just held in with 2-1/2" screws -- three of them every 2' or so. The ledger was atop the siding and then OSB. Those screws maybe got 1/2" or so into rim --maybe. I'm glad I'm tearing this completely apart.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    104

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger


  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    104

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    Ran into this issue -- the "stick on membrane" is apparently not so sticky. Most did ok, but a section about 8' long detached after the first day. The plan was to apply the membrane from 1/2" below the sheathing (osb) to 6" above the ledger board, which was about 19". I applied the first "row" of membrane, and then a 2nd row atop it overlapping by 1". I noticed the membrane that was still attached separated a bit in places and of most concern along the top edge. I do not have house wrap, tar paper, etc - just osb, then masonite siding. I pulled off two rows of siding. My plan was to apply the membrane, the ledger, then metal deck flashing atop and extending over the ledger, then apply some membrane atop the metal flashing to seal it to the osb. The expectation was that any water that did get between the osb and siding would run down, hit the membrane, flow onto the metal flashing, and then out and over the ledger. I was planning to leave the small area of osb below the ledger just covered with membrane - nothing else. I noticed in the FWW deck video, they applied membrane, ledger, membrane down to the ledger, over and down the ledger, and then nailed on the deck flashing. But they also had housewrap which they then stapled over the metal flashing. In my case I was hoping for a tight seal at the osb to metal deck flashing joint.

    What about this idea -- leave the membrane in-place behind the ledger and down the remaining sheathing, but caulk the top edge of the metal flashing against the osb? My biggest concern is to get a tight seal at the osb to deck flashing joint, so water does not get trapped, rot the osb, and get into the framing. Now the good news is - there is no visible sign of water ever getting to this point, but nevertheless I'd like to do what I can now.

    Also.. what about the osb below the ledger? If I cover it entirely with the membrane -- held in place by the ledger -- do I need to add anything atop that area? Attaching a piece of siding seems to have little value, as it's below the ledger. Whatever I do needs to be continuous from above the ledger.

    For reference..
    10" membrane for on the sheathing behind the ledger -- http://www.menards.com/main/building...004-c-5728.htm

    4" that I was going to apply atop the metal flashing -- http://www.menards.com/main/building...003-c-5728.htm

    here is the deck flashing -- http://www.menards.com/main/building...617-c-5728.htm

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    104

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    I'm starting to suspect some faulty membrane. The stuff that is there now.. has been holding well, but that first roll I put on, fell off within a few hours. I think I'm going to ask to get a new roll. Since I do not have wrap, just siding atop OSB, I'm not sure the membrane behind the ledger makes any difference. I just need to deflect any water out onto the metal flashing and over the ledger. My concern is that if the membrane does not stick well to the osb, that itself will create a "trough" where water will collect and rot the osb.

    This is how I intended to do it --

    The black being the 1st layer of membrane (black) -- then the ledger -- then the metal deck flashing (yellow) -- then another layer of membrane (red), but the 1st layer (black) is not sticking as well as I had anticipated. I just don't want that final layer (red) to create a trough between it and the osb.
    Last edited by coloradotrout; 06-07-2013 at 02:46 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    324

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    Check to see if the membrane manufacturer requires a primer for good adhesion /
    I have use membranes that all require the the primer be used once applied with the primer you will not be able to remove it.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    104

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    Quote Originally Posted by Clarence View Post
    Check to see if the membrane manufacturer requires a primer for good adhesion /
    I have use membranes that all require the the primer be used once applied with the primer you will not be able to remove it.
    I left a message with:

    please contact NEI at:
    Northern Elastomeric Inc
    50 Pine Road
    Brentwood, NH 03833
    1-800-998-4634
    www.nei-act.co

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,769

    Default Re: Attaching Ledger

    can you extend the "red" to go up under the siding? That would be best.

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