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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    93

    Question Painting Late 1940's Interior House Questions???

    I am looking to paint my home it was built in the late 1940's and it has lead paint was well as latex paint on the walls and ceiling. I have been doing some repairs of the walls and ceiling and wondering just what would be the best paint to put over these repaired areas to start. Would a primer be good or maybe a stain killer be the best way to go? Seems that over time the oil / lead base paints thatw ere used seem to bubble up in spots any suggests on how to stop this from going on?

    Second when i repair these areas you can see them after they are painted is there a way to get them to blend in better. I have been told it is the type of roller used but I have tried many and none seem to produce the same texture the wall has being they are plaster.

    Best way to prep walls with lead paint underneath the latex that is on top of the existing paint?

    Just trying to get the best results since this is my first time painting the whole house.

    Also seems that in the bathroom the old paint likes to bubble up in spots and I hate having to remove it because they it makes it even more spotty. Is it a good idea to sc**** the areas down, fill in with the 90 Light weight setting type joint compound and the sand it and primer it paint it? I have added a bath fan thinking this would help but so far it still happens???

    Just looking for some pointers as to doing the best I can being it is an older home and have many things that were done before I moved in...

    Any information would be very helpful...

    Thanks,
    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon, formerly of Chicago
    Posts
    1,583

    Default Re: Painting Late 1940's Interior House Questions???

    Mike,

    It is NEVER wrong to prime, although sometimes it is overkill. I am not exactly sure what is causing the "bubbling" you describe. I would probably scrap/sand all the walls down to sound paint or plaster.I think I would then use an oil based primer on the entire area. Oil based primers are both primers and stain killers. After priming, I would then do my patching. The Easy Sand Durabond type product you have been using is very good. It has very good adhesion and sands easily when thoroughly
    dry. After sanding, I would then spot prime the patches. Given that there is some lead based paint on the wall, you want to make sure you wear a dust mask rated for stopping lead dust.

    As to matching the new patches to the old texture: It is not clear whether you are just covering past roller textures or a texture that was given to the original plaster. Obviously, a new patch is always quite smooth in relation to the surrounding past textures. One trick to help blend the new patch into the old texture is to after sanding, take a dampened block sponge and rub around the edge of the patch. Drywall mud or Durabond will re-desolve, allowing the smooth new patch to make a more gradual transition to the old texture. If the texture you are seeing is somewhat "dipply", you might want to experiment with spray cans of texture. These are available at Home Depot. They have adjustable nozzles which go from fine to course. Practice on a piece of cardboard before you commit to the wall. This texture must then be spot primed after dry.

    It sounds like you are considering a skim coat of dry wall mud in your bath. This certainly is an option to give you a totally smooth appearance. It is a lot of work, however.

    I am not a fan of textured walls. In my native Chicago, such textures were quite unusual. However, here in Oregon, textured walls are the norm. Flat wall is much easier to patch.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3

    Default Re: Painting Late 1940's Interior House Questions???

    I agree that you must wear a mask approved for lead. But I'd like to add something to the advise. Lead dust spreads VERY easily. The scraping will spread the dust all over your house through your cold air return and heating/cooling system. The EPA has a website specifically with advise for containing that dust at
    http://www.epa.gov/lead/
    I urge you to look at the information and follow their guidelines. Lead dust inhaled can kill. ESPECIALLY if you ever have children in the house. They are much more seceptible than adults.
    Hope I was able to help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon, formerly of Chicago
    Posts
    1,583

    Default Re: Painting Late 1940's Interior House Questions???

    Andyjade,

    Good advice. I would treat the area where lead dust is being created similarly to how I isolated spray dust when spraying paint in an occupied house. First, turn off the heat/air-conditioning during the dust raising operation. Isolate the room with floor to ceiling or archway covering plastic sheeting. I always carried a small window fan to give a negative suction into the room and out the window.

    I sometimes wonder how I avoided lead poisoning over all these years. I am old enough to have applied lead paint before it was banned in the early 70's. I have also inhaled a LOT of dust, much of which I am certain contained lead.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    93

    Thumbs up Re: Painting Late 1940's Interior House Questions???

    Thanks for the Information, I am taking precautions because of the lead dust. I have the area closed off and no children in the home and wiping down the area daily at the end of the day to contain the dust and such.

    I am using a sponge type sanding block with two different grits as a means to get the texture on the patched areas. I skim coat the area and then tack over the skim coat with the block just completed that so I am waiting over night and going to prime these patches to see if it is closed to the wall texture around it.

    I have yet to see a roller that leaves any kind of texture effect on the wall when I have due some small patches, you can see the areas I have patched just for a nail hole after removing the nails.

    The same thing when I removed the door for the milk shoot and just added a piece of drywall and mudded over you can see the outline of where I patched it. I have tried twice to sand it down and repatch it but both times over a year it looks like it just settles and you see the outline again. I even insulated the wall and still happens.

    Appreciate your information and time providing it. Just trying to get it fixed up in case I have to sell being now I am unemployed and in Michigan...

    THANKS!!!
    MMeehan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon, formerly of Chicago
    Posts
    1,583

    Default Re: Painting Late 1940's Interior House Questions???

    MM,

    If you are still seeing those patches, I think you are meerly seeing the smooth sanded patch up against years of roller texture on the wall. If you have an old well worn roller which was gotten rather "raggy", try using it in conjunction with a small amount of paint thickened with a little of the dry wall compound powder. The thickened paint and old roller cover should allow the paint to leave texture. You might want to practice on a piece of cardboard to test the results.

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