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Thread: shingle roof

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Default shingle roof

    just put a new roof on in December and sections have blown off four times now. I am in Brigantine, NJ. and this last wind storm on 3/6/13, blew four large sections off of 40 sq. I was told that the problem was not enough sun to melt the strip. I asked if there was a way to help the process, I suggested heating up the singles with a wide torch similar to the ones we use with shrink wrapping boats.
    I was told that I was nuts. I called the factory up and they said the only way they know is to use four dabs of cement under each shingle. That's a lot of work. Anybody know of a way???

  2. #2
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    Using a torch is not a job for the DIY. The last thing you want is to burn down your house. The highly flammable part here is the tar paper.

    You have a few options:
    1. Do what the manufacturer says.
    2. Wait till the summer to lay the shingles.
    3. Use more roofing nails and don't use staples. Roofing nails will hold the shingles better.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    Is the nail pattern up to manufactures specs? There is a right and wrong way to nail shingles down
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

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  4. #4
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    Quote Originally Posted by dj1 View Post
    U3. Use more roofing nails and don't use staples. Roofing nails will hold the shingles better.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo View Post
    Is the nail pattern up to manufactures specs? There is a right and wrong way to nail shingles down
    These are the two primary reasons for roof failures, first and foremost, staples are used instead of nails, guaranteed failure right there. Second is the pattern. For low risk situations, 4 nails per shingle is acceptable, for high wind/snow risk situations, 5 nails per shingle is recommended.

    As to the fastener, regardless of type, how it is driven is a key factor in failure. Staples, besides being inadequate, are frequently driven too deep, or at an angle, which turns then into a knife edge which cuts through the shingle with the slightest of breeze. Nails hold much better, even when slightly over driven, though ANY over driven fastener is likely to result in failure.

    Yes, if the roof doesn't get warm enough to melt the glue and seal the tabs together, you've got a bit of an issue there as well, however, it doesn't take but a few hours of direct sunlight, above freezing to melt and start sealing the tabs down. Still, a properly driven nail will hold a shingle in place in moderate gusts and winds.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  5. #5
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    the staple thing is the truth. most regions dont allow staples to be used anymore.

    location of the fastener is a very big thing, if your losing large amounts of shingles thats typicaly the tell tale sign that they werent properly nailed.. someone i know is having a house built as we speak and the roofer nailed about 3" to high which has little to no holding power.. they lost a good portion of the shingles on the roof
    fire up the saw and make some dust

  6. #6
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    I don't see how a roofer is going to nail shingles the wrong way, when the nailing instructions, with diagrams, are on the shingle wrappers. He doesn't even have to know English.

    In high wind areas, use 5 nails on a full length shingle.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    Quote Originally Posted by dj1 View Post
    I don't see how a roofer is going to nail shingles the wrong way, when the nailing instructions, with diagrams, are on the shingle wrappers. He doesn't even have to know English.
    You would think, but I find nails placed too high and to low on a shingle all the time. I've seen nails as high as the top edge of the shingle - worthless, and as low as into the visible portion of the shingle - also worthless as this is a leaker waiting to happen.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    Shingles that blow off usally have to do with the nailing. Architectural shingles are laminated together. The nail pattern specs are designed to be nailed into the laminated area because the shingles are thicker in that area and has more hold down power to get a 130 MPH wind rating. Just because shingles are rated for 130 mph doesnt mean they wont blow off. IMO the ratings have to do with nail patterns,roof pitch rise/slopes and which area gets the hotest from the sun to seal them together. Some of the Owens Corning Architectural shingles has a woven nylon fabric along the nail pattern for additional holding power.

    Im not so sure there is a difference between nails or staples for holding power. I prefer nails myself. Manufactures specs suggest nails over staples though.

    Roofing was never part of my gig. It was much easier to hire it out.
    Gizmo

    Cut it 3 times & it's still to short.
    Inventor of the Miter Master Plus.

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  9. #9
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    Thanks to all of you that answered. Down the shore the code is six nails per shingle, no staples were used . The height of the nails is a different story. I will check on that and get back to you.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: shingle roof

    its quite easy for a roofer to not nail where their supposed to.. quite a few roofers work for builders that pay out next to nothing.. they just pay out based on the # of squares the roof is.. so these guys work extremely fast and pay little or no attention to detail.
    fire up the saw and make some dust

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