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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    6,481

    Default Re: Strength of Different Woods for Book Shelves

    Quote Originally Posted by t_manero View Post
    I assume Painting is easier & faster than a Stain finish -- is this strue ??
    I am required to unpack 75 boxes of books, and need to do it within my remaining lifetime and need to select the faster method.
    They will both probably take you about the same amount of time. I personally prefer stain/clear coat finishes because I like the look of wood. IMHO, stain/cc will be much easier than paint. If you go this route, use a "stain only" product first, then top it with a compatible clear coat. I say "stain only" because there are many top coat stains available, but they are more paint-like than stain. I'm not a fan of gel stains either, while being a bit easier to use, they do not have the penetrating abilities of regular stains.

    And last bit of advice, if you go with a stain/cc finish, MinWax makes excellent stains, but their top coat products are utter garbage! I am a fan of McCloskies brand polyurethane, General is another good brand.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon, formerly of Chicago
    Posts
    1,585

    Default Re: Strength of Different Woods for Book Shelves

    t_manero,

    The wood species that have been mention; pine,fir,poplar or even birch, are all considered soft woods when it comes to staining. To avoid a spotchy look, they require a pre-stain conditioner. A conditioner is merely the clear liquid which the stain is made from. It is applied liberally, allowed to soak in for a couple minutes and then completely wiped off. The theory is that those soft, porous portions of the wood will absorb the oil and the harder portions will not. When wiped clean, the boards will have similar porosity so that when the pigmented stain is applied, it will go on evenly. The stain should be applied within two hours of the pre-stain.

    After allowing the stain to dry for at least several hours in a warm room, your finish may be applied. If using a urethane varnish, at least two coats are neccessary. A third coat gives better protection.

    Many woodworkers dislike urethanes, feeling they give a somewhat plastic appearance. On a light traffic cabinet such as a bookcase, you might just use a couple coats of danish oil as your finish on top of your stained wood. Danish oil gives a nice patina and does not scratch in the same way as a brittle urethane. Danish oil is very easy to apply, just wipe on, wait a few minutes and wipe off what has not soaked into the wood.

    If however, wet items are ever to be set on it, stay with the more durable urethane.

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