Quote Originally Posted by The Semi-Retired Electric View Post
I believe you made a wise decision to forget how they did it and concentrate on how it should be done.
Thanks Semi-Retired Electric I did some testing yesterday and found that they used one neutral for all the lights in this branch. Seeing how some of this K&T gets wired I was relieved and happy to see that. I capped the neutral and hot in the main box and now I'm trying to figure out how to group the new wiring. I think I'm going to have a separate breaker for each room. So for the bedroom I'll have 3 receptacles and the light on one breaker. For the living room I'll do the same thing. Does code allow this? Which leads me to my next question;

Each bath should have it's own 20A circuit and the receptacle should be GFCI protected.
The bath does have it's own GFCI BUT it's a 15 amp GFCI/breaker. They didn't run anything downstairs at 20 amp. All the old K&T was 15 amp. Is that OK?

Here is how the bathroom is currently wired; The GFCI is on its own 15 amp breaker. The heated floor is very small (3' X 2') and is only 1 amp. It is also on its own 15 amp breaker. The bathroom lights were on the old K&T wiring that I'm replacing now.

Would it be OK to tap off the GFCI for the bathroom lights? Or does the GFCI need to be on its own breaker? Can I tap off the heated floor thermostat to feed a nearby hallway light?

Generally, AFCI breakers are required in all areas that do not require GFCI protection. When in doubt install them, they're designed to offer superior wiring protection and some shock protection as well.
Yes I want to use AFCI throughout the house. However it's a Square D panel and I'm trying to find out if I can use GE or Eaton Cutler Hammer AFCI breakers. Also the main panel is now full and I need to add 3 more circuits to it to replace this old K&T wiring. I've never seen a tandem or dual circuit AFCI, so I may need to add a sub-panel.

THANKS for all of your help in sorting all of this out