Re: The proper "grit" for pre paint sanding
There are types of wood that are high in resin content that make them problematic for painting, but I've never heard of sanding "releasing oils".
Pine is high in pitch, which is difficult to seal and stain or paint. Teak is also high in natural resins that can be hard to deal with, but it is unlikely that you've got teak in your Queen Anne.
Tacoma lists several good steps for determining paint type and prep. I would not suggest spot priming and opt for full prime coat (two if necessary ) followed by two coats of paint. The problem with spot priming is the it will leave a different sheen under the paint which will affect the overall look once the item is completely repainted, producing "shiners". With a full, even coat of primer, you not only stand a better chance of the paint adhering to old surfaces, you have a good base to work from that will result in a more even top coat.
I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!