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Thread: Bath remodel

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Rocky Mountain Foothills
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    1

    Default Bath remodel

    A bath remodel (actually two baths) is in the planning stage. A couple of questions. The toilet sits on subfloor surrounded by carpet (builder thought carpeted bath would be nice. Yuk!). Once ceramic tile is installed will I need to raise the flange level with the tiled floor? Am assuming yes. Is it possible to remove the old or do I use an insert of some type to level with new floor? Also, we would like to have the new shower without using a pan, simply have floor level with the rest of the bath. Not sure I am up to that but would be interested in how it is done before deciding. Any information or suggestions on websites that could help would be appreciated.

    Thanks for any/all help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    South*East
    Posts
    1,183

    Default Re: Bath remodel

    The flange should set on top of the finish floor. There are many was to accomplish this depending on the type pipe your working with. As far as not having a threshold for the shower unless it's need to accommodate someone that's handicapped I would advise against it.

    John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,438

    Default Re: Bath remodel

    1. Ideally, you will have a situation like John says, where the flange sits on the finishes floor, or just flush with the finish floor. Depending on how deeper the flange is from the new floor, you can add a "toilet flange extension". Go to the stores and find one.

    2. No pan shower is a must for wheelchair access, the problem is splashing water. If you want to have a shower floor like this you will have to deal with this problem.

    My solution: I have installed a shower floor like this once, and to stop the splashing I've install a threshold of short glass blocks. They can be easily knocked out, if the shower was to be used for wheelchair access.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    2,505

    Default Re: Bath remodel

    To know whether or not you can achieve a curbless shower or tile your bathroom floor at all, head on over to the John Bridge Tile forum and use the handy dandy deflecto-meter. There you can start a thread for this project, read the extensive liberry, and post pics.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    4

    Default Re: Bath remodel

    First, you need to remove existing tiles and then apply new tiles because tiling over tile is not working properly. You can use porcelain tiles,limestone tiles and marble tiles for your bathroom.*

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,419

    Default Re: Bath remodel

    *** Deja Vu. I had exactly the same situation a few years ago. The bathroom was carpeted and as a result, the floor below had a lot of rot, especially around the toilet. To make matters worse, the plumber had cut through two adjacent joists so I had a 48" span without full joist support. The toilet was a rock'in.

    I also did the "roll in" shower. In my case, I had to gut all the way to the dirt so that I could put in new joists. For the shower, I made a separate sunken floor. The main joists are 2x10, but for the shower, the joists are 2x6 PT with the bottoms of the joists set even with the bottoms of the 2x10's. The bath is 8x11', the 2x10 running parallel with the 11' dimension. I doubled the 2x10's along each side of the 3x5 shower so the joist supporting the shower are only 3" long. I used joist hangers to the doubled 2x10's.

    I covered the joists under the shower pan with 3/4" PT plywood and I used pieces of the PT plywood to side around the shower pan. I used some strips of cement board to form the slope for the bottom of the shower pan. I thought this would be the easy way, but now I'm not sure that carefully cutting PT plywood and slanted shims might have been easier, although the books I read on making a cement shower pan (or bed) said that it is harder unless you are an experienced carpenter.

    Then I laid the material to form the shower pan and ran it up onto the bathroom floor. I used cement board on the whole shower floor and then used thinset to make a very shallow slop in the bathroom floor so that the whole floor slopes to the shower. If I had a do over on this, I would have carefully shaved the joists down so that when I put down the plywood floor, it would already slope to the shower. I was going for a 1/8" slope per foot and that was very hard to do with thinset. I poured the 2" cement bed for the shower with a 1/4" slope per foot. When I got through with the final coat of thinset on the whole floor and shower, it was a continuous slope to the shower drain.

    Then I tiled with 1" hex tile with a polymer fortified thinset and then grouted with an epoxy grout. The epoxy grout is not as hard to use as many people think. You just have to follow directions to the letter and carefully time each step. I could only grout about 13 sq ft at a time. If you are not an expert at tiling, and this was my first attempt at tiling, I recommend that you use the same color thinset as the tile. That way if you don't get the tile spacing just right, it wont show as bad. If you do get it perfect, then you can show off with a colored grout. Needless to say, first time tiling, hex tile and a sloping surface, I did not get it anywhere near perfect.

    BTW, the 1" hex tile has the highest grip of all tiles so it is less of a slip hazard.

    Since I have a conventional foundation, I just cut the PVC drain pipe and put in a new on with a new toilet flange. I also changed the rough in from the 10" to a 12" to accommodate a new toilet.

    I lost most of the pictures I took of the process due to a hard drive crash, but I had a few saved on Photobucket.com







    Since we are not at the point of needing the roll in feature yet, I did put a row of curved top glass blocks as a temporary curb, held in place with caulk. That was after taking these pictures.

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