Re: toilet runs periodically
Replacing the working parts of a toilet is incredibly easy and inexpensive. For less than $20 you can get all the replacement parts, and the only tools you need are a flat screwdriver and "channel lock" pliers.
Typically, you'll find three kits, though they may be bundled:
- Fill (float) valve
- Flush (flapper) valve
- Tank-to-bowl bolt & gasket
Most fill valves and flush valves are universal and will fit almost any toilet. There are very few exceptions, but take the old parts in to the store to make sure you get parts that will fit. Hint: some of the models look radically different than what you have, but they'll work just as well. A few tips:
- You don't need to remove the bowl from the floor. That will just make the job messier and more frustrating.
- You may need to cut down the overflow tube. The length from the lowest part of the rim the flapper rests on to the top of the overflow tube should be the same on the new one as on the old one. (Don't just make the overall length the same; make sure the difference is the same.) Use a hacksaw or tubing cuter.
- On the fill valve, there will be a mark labeled "CL." This mark must be ABOVE the top of the overflow tube to prevent siphoning back into the water supply.
- Some toilets will have three tank-to-bowl bolts; most have two. Make sure the bolts are solid brass, not steel.
- There are numerous variations of the tank-to-bowl gasket. Make sure you get the right one.
- The instructions included with the tank-to-bowl bolts are wrong. Do not install a metal washer between the head of the bolt and the rubber washer, or between the rubber washer and the tank. The only parts inside the tank are the bolt head and the rubber washer.
- Tighten the tank-to-bowl nuts until the tank no longer rocks. If you can't tighten it any more and it's still rocking, the gasket may be too thick, or you may need to remove the nuts from between the tank and the bowl, only using the bottom nut under the bowl flange.
- When tightening plastic nuts, don't tighten more than 1/2 turn beyond hand tight.
- When adjusting the float, the water level is usually 1" below the top of the overflow tube. You may need to vary this for proper flushing action.
Last edited by Fencepost; 04-18-2012 at 03:09 AM.
The "Senior Member" designation under my name doesn't mean I know a lot, it just means I talk a lot.I've been a DIYer since I was 12 (thanks, Dad!). I have read several books on various home improvement topics. I do not have any current code books I can refer to. I was an apprentice plumber for two years.