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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon, formerly of Chicago
    Posts
    1,585

    Default Re: peeling and craxking garage walls

    OK, that I can see. A good airless with the trigger held open is emptying a gallon in two or three minutes. A two car garage could easily suck up three or four gallons in a very short time. Lots of vapor, even with an airless!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    6,481

    Default Re: peeling and craxking garage walls

    Quote Originally Posted by Tacoma John View Post
    Ordjen, I believe the fellow was using an airless. It was a client of my paint rep. It really doesn't matter other than the volume of primer put out per minute. The gasses are still there. I prefer Cover Stain, same company. Cover stain has a higher flash point than Bin Primer. Comparing the two is like comparing gasoline to diesel fuel. Both burn, but one takes a lot more to ignite. The only use I have had for Bin Primer is to cover what cover stain would not,(only once). I would love to discuss this further. You can contact me at tacomajohn3@gmail.com . We both have great knowledge about paint and how to paint in the NW. After all we are only 120 miles apart.
    I vote you just start another thread about it. Sounds like an interesting chat.
    I suffer from CDO ... Its like OCD, but in alphabetical order, LIKE IT SHOULD BE!!!

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    1

    Question Re: peeling and craxking garage walls

    I live in South Florida and started patching and sanding my garage, then painted, all the paint is just peeling off easily. Under this is the drywall and a dusty residue, what is this residue and how do I get rid of it? Would like to get rid of this powdery residue and get my garage completed. Help

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon, formerly of Chicago
    Posts
    1,585

    Default Re: peeling and craxking garage walls

    Jenbeatty,

    It sounds like someone sanded the drywall and then simply rolled over all the dust. Drywall should be wiped down after sanding and then a dedicated drywall primer should be used to seal the drywall. Drywall primers have a higher moisture content to penetrate that porous paper and mudded surfaces, giving a good bond. I decent quality paint should then be used, preferably one with some sheen to it. Too often people just grab a cheap flat paint at the big box store and then put it on without a primer.

    Personally, I think the primer is far more important than the quality of the finish coat. You will never again be able to get adhesion to the bare drywall.

    What should you do now? Sc**** the loose paint the best you can. Wipe off the surface dust. Patch and sand the areas with drywall compound and spot prime the patches. I would then prime the entire garage with a general acrylic wall primer such as Zinser 123 (not drywall primer this time). Finish coat with a quality wall paint.

    Especially in humid Florida, I would get a premium paint with a good mildecide in it. The first thing that gets eliminated when a paint company is cutting costs, is the addition of a mildecide. This alone adds a couple bucks to the cost of a gallon of paint. That $10 bargain paint will NEVER have a mildecide in it. For that matter, how good is the paint when an empty gallon can costs almost $5!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Tacoma WA
    Posts
    87

    Default Re: peeling and craxking garage walls

    I agree with Ordjen on this one, he is a pretty smart cookie. There maybe another possiblity though, water. Where is it peeling, just an outside wall, or just one inside wall next to a bathroom or kitchen? If it is located in just one area or wall then it is most likely water, if it is through out then it is most likely poor prep and or paint.

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