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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    177

    Default PVC to galanized connection

    I have a piece of 2" black PVC that connects to a hub (cast iron, I think) that comes out from the slab. That piece of PVC is short....about 4" and has developed a crack (from me being stupid). It looks like the PVC is sealed to the hub with lead. I need to replace the PVC (which has a vertical section of PVC above it) but am unsure how to remove the old...or how to seal a new piece in. Can anyone give me some direction on this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by waltdeckhouse; 03-12-2012 at 10:39 AM. Reason: wrong metal

  2. #2
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    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    If you can see the hub and the lead joint then drill a series of holes in the lead joint. Using a small screwdriver pick out the remaining lead. Below the lead it is calked with oakum (a rope like fiber). Once the lead is removed then rock the joint back and fourth while pulling it apart. To redo the joint you re-calk it with oakum and as I'm sure you don't have the tools required to pour a new lead joint you can use lead wool. The pipe you have is called ABS.

    http://www.marshield.com/sites/marsh...s/leadwool.pdf

    John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    177

    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    John,

    Thank you very much for addressing my question.

    Do you not recommend using rubber donuts for the new installation? Such as http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings/donuts

    Also, is the lead wool available to a home owner via Home Depot or is it a specialty item that I need to pick up from a plumbing supplier? Does one just stuff the wool into the gap and that is all? No heat applied?

    Thanks again for your help.

    -Walt

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Houston Texas
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    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    The rubber donuts are the way to go.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    SoCal
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    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    Oakum and lead are not used anymore. Try the rubber seal and report back. Another option is a rubber reducer (aka tubular connector).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    92

    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    I have seen those donuts leak! if it was me I would cut off the bell if possible and then butt the new pipe right up to the old and use a nohub fitting http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/L...160422/Cat/429 the ones with stainless steel bands last longer but this will give you a more tight seal and will last a lot longer than the fernco donut.

    Ben & Munson Mech Plumbing
    Lehi, UT 84043
    (801) 960-1766 ‎
    http://www.benfranklinplumbingut.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    177

    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    To close the loop....I decided to use a rubber do-nut. There was not enough of the pipe under the hub left to go with a hub less connection. I was not that excited about handling more lead.

    The portion of ABS pipe that was down in the metal pipe sure was falling apart. There were several spots (holes) in the plastic where it looks like the plastic just went away. Is this normal? It was a bit of work to get that thing out of the pipe.

    One last question...when I look at the Fernco site they show the do-nut all the way down in the hub. http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings/donuts Does the entire do-nut have to go down into the hub? I have a top flanged portion (~1/8") of the do-nut that is sticking up above the hub. Do I need to force that part down into the hub? If so, how do i get it down in there? Maybe make a wood tool to be able to press it all in?

    -Walt

  8. #8
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    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    If I understand you correctly, I think you're fine with it sticking out 1/8".

    Back to the ABS: what kind of holes did you see? holes that suggest that the pipe was eaten away? holes from a drill?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    177

    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    So far the do-nut has not leaked (ran dishwasher, clothes washer, etc)...so I am fine with the 1/8" sticking up....as long as that is the right thing to do.

    the holes in the ABS almost looked like they were caused by erosion. They looked like vertical slots...sort of. they appeared in the portion of the pipe that was in contact with the metal pipe and below the lead seal.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: PVC to galanized connection

    Quote Originally Posted by waltdeckhouse View Post
    So far the do-nut has not leaked (ran dishwasher, clothes washer, etc)...so I am fine with the 1/8" sticking up....as long as that is the right thing to do.

    the holes in the ABS almost looked like they were caused by erosion. They looked like vertical slots...sort of. they appeared in the portion of the pipe that was in contact with the metal pipe and below the lead seal.
    When ABS first started going to foam core pipe they were having a problem with it like you are describing. The bad pipe had what looked like elongated dots that were actuary holes in the pipe. I remember having to return a 800' order of 2" and 3" pipe. Hopefully that's the only piece you have in your home. They never did do a recall on it.

    John

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