+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 12 of 12
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon, formerly of Chicago
    Posts
    1,736

    Default Re: Can someone explain what polyurethane is for?

    If the Minwax stain is used, no sanding sealer is neccessary as the stain sets the grain. It you want unstained wood, a sanding sealer is recommended.

    At Home Depot, Varathane Floor Oil finish is the more premium and more expensive. It contains microscopic aluminum oxide particles to increase wear. That is the stuff sandpaper is made from. It requires a minimum of two coats over a stain, but 3coats is highly advisable to increase the long term wear. As mentioned, it does have a slight amber tone to it and will get more so with age. This is important if a light, whiteish stain is used. Better then to use the water based.

    Water soluble urethanes are increasingly popular because they dry quickly and multiple coats can be put on in a day. They also have relatively little odor. A minimum of 4 coats is generally recommended with these because the film is thinner. Many feel that the water borne products lack the warmth of the oil based due to their crystal clear color. This can be partially alleviated by using a de-waxed, or "universal sealer" as the first coat. DO NOT use regular shellac, as it is not compatible with urethanes. Shellac gives a nice warm patina which helps the water bourne urethane avoid that plastic look. Shellac is also very fast drying.

    Allication of floor finishes is normally by use of a floor applicator on a b room stick; lambs wood for oil, synthetic for water based. A brush is used to cut in the edges. I have seen the pros just pour the varnish on the floor and kind of squeegee it
    along the floor in a kind of figure eight pattern.

    You definitely want to follow the directions on the can. Urethanes are kind of funny in that they have a window in which additional coats can be applied without sanding, usually between 4 to 12 hours. Once thouroughly dried, it has to be "screened" or sanded before additional coats. So, try to stay in that 4 to 12 hour window to avoid repeated sandings. Of course, if you have managed to get crude into the varnish, it can always be sanded and dusted before continuing.

    As to how environmentally friendly shellac is: it is grain alcohol (de-natured) with shellac flakes desolved in it. What is more organic than beatle droppings! It is harmless enough that medication pills are coated with it! It is about as time tested as a product can be. The Chinese have been using it for a couple thousand years! I guess they didn't know that there is no lead or melamine in it!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    40

    Default Re: Can someone explain what polyurethane is for?

    your best bet is to use a product from parks pro floor finish you can purchase it at h/d for $40 a gal goes a long way remember to apply in thin coats it was called culver tipp then bought up by parks it was the first waterborne poly & stain & is still the best you can apply 3 coats in 1 day 1 every 2hrs lightly sand & tack rag in between coats i always like to add some stain in final coat to give some depth must be water based stain will hold up better than any oil passe been using it since '93 using oil would take 3 days 1 coat a day plus the smell will be around for a week just get it done & over with
    Last edited by masterpainter; 03-04-2012 at 12:53 PM.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •