+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16

Thread: Drywall height

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    1,667

    Default Re: Drywall height

    The 3/8 or 1/2" gap at the floor, with the ceiling installed first, gets covered with the base molding. I can't see trying to cut or snap 3/8" stips of drywall.
    Having installed & finished drywall for a while many years ago, I never understood installing it horizontally, even though most reisdential work is done that way. I was doing commercial work at the time. One vertical seam to finish every 4' as opposed to a continuous horizontal seam at 4' and verticals every 8'.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Houston Texas
    Posts
    2,969

    Default Re: Drywall height

    I don't want the vertical butted seam that comes from horizontal sheet installation. I hang my sheets vertical too unless there are stud spacing issues.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    nova scotia, canada
    Posts
    1,522

    Default Re: Drywall height

    hanging sheets vertically creates more joints that have to be taped.

    its harder on the taper as they have to kneel for 1/2 the joint, the only time a vertical butt joint will occur is if a room is longer than the sheets used. having a joint at waist height just means walking along taping it thus eliminating it becoming a two man task.. one guy up on stilts one guy hitting low spots.

    not only that but unless the taper is capable of doing a level 5 finish you will see every joint
    fire up the saw and make some dust

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    1,768

    Default Re: Drywall height

    I know the convention is to use a filler strip in the middle, but since this filler strip is going to be so thin, < 2", I might suggest that you put it at the bottom where the joint will be covered by molding.

    If you are considering using crown molding in the room, then you could leave a gap at the top and the bottom and you wouldn't need a filler strip at all.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    The Great White North
    Posts
    4,045

    Default Re: Drywall height

    Quote Originally Posted by jkirk View Post
    hanging sheets vertically creates more joints that have to be taped.

    its harder on the taper as they have to kneel for 1/2 the joint, the only time a vertical butt joint will occur is if a room is longer than the sheets used. having a joint at waist height just means walking along taping it thus eliminating it becoming a two man task.. one guy up on stilts one guy hitting low spots.

    not only that but unless the taper is capable of doing a level 5 finish you will see every joint
    Yep --- that pretty much sums it up.
    I've got some cousins with drywall companies and we joke about how rockers like the easy way

    One reason it works in the center is when the sheets are horizontal the seam is feathered out and in this case the 3 inch filler will blend in nicely.

    I do both methods -- vertical for smaller areas -- horizontal for larger areas.
    "" an ounce of perception -- a pound of obscure "
    - Rush

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    nova scotia, canada
    Posts
    1,522

    Default Re: Drywall height

    pretty much the only times i will do vertical board are
    1) a section of a wall is less than 48" so the sheet can be cut to width then stood up

    2) temperary curtain walls for commercial construction when the board isnt going to be taped, its just there to help keep dust down and people from seeing inside. common for store front renovations
    fire up the saw and make some dust

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •