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  1. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    94

    Default Re: Heating efficiency?

    The beauty of a forced hot water boiler/baseboard system is that it can be zoned for different parts of the house, as is your system----this provides comfort zones, as well as fuel savings due to less fuel consumed.

    I assume that your main motivation in this is to reduce the amount of fuel oil consumed during the cold winter months.

    Any overall heating improvement due to added heat to the basement, assuming some of it will rise to the upper floor can perhaps only be determined by doing a test run to see if there is any improvement, vis a vis the extra amount of fuel that will be expended.

    I can think of a number of factors that might be at play: the presence or absence of insulation between the basement & the upper floor, the presence or lack of exterior wall insulation; the presence or lack of double pane windows/storms; the height of the concrete/stone foundation; etc, etc.

    Added basement heat will always allow some transference of heat from the basement to the upper floor; one possible thing that may or may not happen is that you might be able to inject enough heat BTUs into the stone walls & concrete floor structures of the basement to create a radiant heat situation, where the heating zone for the basement stops firing and the built up basement heat radiates to the upper floor-----of course, the opposite could happen, the concrete walls/floors could just absorb a lot of heat (heat sink effect) & inject it into the ground & that will just mean a larger oil bill.

    I always advise homeowners that the PRIORITY items to look at for greatest heating bill savings is to make sure there is adequate exterior wall insulation (R19), and attic insulation (R40)---temporarily remove the electric receptacles at the inside base of the exterior walls; shine a flashlight to see if you can feel or see any insulation; if the previously installed insulation has settled over the years (check the upper parts of the exterior walls), or if there is NO insulation in the exterior walls, then call a local insulation co. to have cellulose insulation blown into the exterior walls---they work from the outside, can do it all in one day, & the cost is moderate---it pays for itself in a very short time-------far too many homeowners completely ignore this simple procedure that can reduce winter energy bills by as much as 50%, especially if it is combined with installing new vinyl double pane windows, especially if you now have single pane windows without storms.

    This is known as "tightening up the building envelope"; insulation pays amazing dividends all year round---it keeps the heat inside during the winter and keeps the air conditioned cool in during the summer---a great way to save $$$ in winter & summer.

    Also, if you happen to have natural gas pipelines in your neighborhood, and the oil-fired boiler is over 10 years old, it would be prudent to consider switching to a newer, more efficient gas-fired boiler; oil is a reasonable choice in the meantime, but fuel oil keeps going up in price, while natural gas, mostly produced in the U.S., is getting cheaper.
    Last edited by brewster; 01-16-2012 at 10:11 AM.

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